Just got my Flashforge Creator Dual and here are my first prints

[curious aardvark]

cheers :-)

It's only a couple of weeks untill the tct show at the nec.
So I'm not buying anything at the moment untill I've been there (hopefully get some filament bargains and maybe some spare bits). That said - I currently don't have any real issues with things sticking.

Just looked through the exhibitors list - and while buildtak aren't listed, there'll probably be someone there using it.

Well my current 'things made of nylon that work' consist of some clips (pics posted of them on my nylon 618 thread) and some hanging loops for teatowels/dishcloths/hand towels etc.
I'll probably put those on thingiverse at some point. And I'll also make a pre-curved version that works with abs.

It's basically a strip of nylon with a plug at one end and a hole at the other, you poke the plug through the cloth and through the hole and it makes a hanging loop.

We had some many years ago and just haven't been able to get any more since. So I made my own :-) They work great :-)

And at less than 0.5gms of nylon per strip - they're ridiculously cheap. Plus it prints 4 in about 10 minutes.

***

so decided to look at geraldines motherboard. and yep there are lots of places to get power for the ducting fan, except: 3v, 5v and 24v - no 12v :-(
on the positive side looks like it should be pretty easy to move the on off switch to the front.

I only have 12v fans. looks like i'll have to take it from the computer psu for now and order a 24v fan.

one of these in fact: http://www.amazon.co.uk/0-10A-5000RP...cp_computers_2
ordered a bag of 100 m3 nuts as well. less than £3.50 for both :-)
At the moment I'm thinking Ill take the power from the same connector as the stepper motor cooling fan connector. shouildn't be any kind of load issue as both are 0.1amp. I'll have a word with my electrician mate for some suitable wire and hopefuly she'll be a good one :-)

[Dargonfly]

Well, you've already ordered the fan now (which is the best option),
..but you could've also put two 12V fans in series on the 24V rail. Or just place one fan on the 5V rail (which will mean it'll spin (a lot) slower, but maybe sufficient.)
But like I said, your solution is a lot cleaner (and fans aren't that expensive yeah.)

Where did you buy the Nylon from? Want to do some testing with it too, and since NL isn't that far from UK shipping should be the same here.

But tonight I want to do a quick and simple test with a sphere without a flat bottom.. basically almost no surface for first layer. Let's see if that adheres to the Buildtak?

[curious aardvark]

So did the sphere work ? I'd be amazed if it did.

I got the fan working and it was going well when the computer died. Need new psu - and I was busy thereafter with other things.
I'll change psu's and try again later :-)

But I did discover one drawback to the ducting adaptor. Bloody thing hits the bulldog clips. So now I'll have to figure out a system to hold the aluminium plate in place that's super low profile.

The little bit of sphere I printed yestreday before the power went - was a huge improvement. So it's definitely working :-)

Far as the nylon goes - it was christmas present, so no idea where it came from.

but 3dfilaprint do the nylon bridge at a reasonable price. And that's supposed to be a lot easier to use than the 618 I've got.
http://www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/bridge-70-c.asp
Cheaper than any I've seen on ebay. And avoid the ebay stuff that just says 'nylon' without any other description. I'm not saying it's all garden strimmer line - but it's probably closer to that than to the taulman stuff :-)

[Dargonfly]

I forgot all about the sphere and printed the 'Helix challenge' to see if I could get some good 3-4cm bridges. ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4659 )

Good to hear that the ducking adapter worked, sad to hear your PSU died though ;o
Don't you have sunken screw holes in the Aluminum plate? that would solve the issue of the bulldog clips.

I will print a full sphere (without supports/raft) tonight - I think it will be doable - and make some pictures together with the double helix outcome.

[curious aardvark]

MY aluminium plate sits on top of the original printbed - which is not even close to being level.

lol the psu was second hand - I just pulled one from a dead pc.

Anyway that's all changed and working. And wow doesn't the ductfan make a difference !

Here's the lastest marvin. printed at 0.2 and 0% infill. Hollow :-)

marvinevolution_800x489.jpg

So not only was the left one printed faster, it was on it's own.

Brilliant :-)

Hollow sphere currently about halfway through. And looking pretty good :-)

sphereevolution_800x417.jpg

Okay spot the difference :-)
I can print ping pong balls ;-)

Unbelievable difference - I am so glad I talked you into getting a flashforge.
:-))))))

[Dargonfly]

Cool stuff man! I need to start printing more hollow models too, the difference in quality is huge at times and I don't need the strength that the infill give me.
The only thing I see that you could improve on is your first few layers; do you heat the bed while printing? If not; you could try printing a larger 'brim' for the first 5 layers, just to give your layers some time to cool down. Or simply print an object next to it that's only 0.5mm high.

Haha, I thought exactly the same thing about those ping-pong balls!

I am the one that's happy being talked into a Flashforge; the options to mod these things is great and for the cost they have a very good quality (aka great bang-for-your-buck!)

[curious aardvark]

it's abs so - heated bed.
I'm not going to be printing organic models very often. So I can happily live with that. The 24v fan might shift more air - should be here by the weekend.
I did print out a model dimpled glande (ancient slinging bullet crossed with modern aerodynamics) with a much smaller initial 'footprint'. And that was damn near perfect.

I've got a roll of pla I haven't really used - so might see if that's any better. Plus I need to try the nylon again.

Not to mention the dual extruder printing thing. And making some bed clips and moving the on/off switch to the front...

This is not a hobby that'll grow stale in the forseeable future :-)