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Thread: Show your MODS

  1. #161
    Hello

    new to this forum; got a 10" pegasus recently and figured I'd share what I've done so far.

    I configured Marlin 1.1.0 RC3 for it; if anyone else has a pegasus I'm maintaining my updates here: https://github.com/quixotic120/MFMarlin . I also maintain a log of my mods there with images where appropriate: https://github.com/quixotic120/MFMar...ee/master/mods

    First mod was the endstops; drilled the mounting holes out to 3mm and bolted them down instead of using the zip ties. I also removed the roller bars because I found them to have a bit too much play, however I would suggest leaving it on the Y axis because the play doesn't matter as much there and its a pain to align without the bar.

    I cleaned up the power supply a bit after that; added a C14 socket with switch for the power cable and printed an endcap/mounts for the PS

    I then replaced the cruddy plate glass I got initially with 3mm borosilicate. With this I fashioned new clamps out of ring crimps that fit under the screws on the corners of the heat bed. I retained the binder clips but went with much smaller ones (~10mm from edge of bed) because the heat bed was not making good contact with the glass but I might replace these with firmer insulation.

    next I printed a new fan shroud that uses 1 40mm fan instead of 2 30mm fans (dual extruders). This was unintentional; it was because I am dumb and broke fins out of both 30mm fans by accidentally hitting them. They still spun but were out of balance and made a horrid noise. I went with 40mm because I had that on hand over buying more 30mm fans. I also added a fan guard to avoid this repeating itself. I'm going to probably redo this later as the fit is not ideal. While I was doing this I added an 80mm fan to my ramps board.

    I added lighting at this point and started really cleaning up the wiring. The lighting is basic, a few LEDs around the frame with an SPST switch. The wiring is definitely much better but still kind of crappy.

    The last two weeks I went on a bit of a tear: I got lucky at micro center and arrived right after they took a delivery of raspberry pi zeros so I set up octopi plus a case. Trying to find time to set up a camera I just got too. I had ordered some stuff that finally came in so I also set up auto bed leveling with a servo (as per zennmaster's guide), added an SSR to allow PID control of my heat bed, and replaced my z-rod brackets with an anti-backlash mount I found on thingiverse.

    Next I want to build an enclosure and I'm also looking at replacing the threaded rods with lead screws but I'm not sure if thats worth the money. My threaded rods are super wobbly though.

  2. #162
    Technologist
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    I have changed a lot of the wooden parts on my i3v 10" printer with plastic. I am really happy with the X-carriage printed in PETG & the wire cage around my electronics. I ran a 14 hour print last night with the new PETG printed X-carriage without any problems. Here are some photos.IMG_9616_800x600.jpgIMG_9669_800x600.jpgIMG_9650_800x600.jpgIMG_9617_800x600.jpgIMG_9621_800x600.jpg

  3. #163
    Technologist
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    Very nice. Care to share the files for the parts that you printed?

  4. #164
    Engineer
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    What is that on the end of the top rail at +X?

  5. #165
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    They should all be in the makerfarm group on thingiverse located here. http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/makerfarm-i3v/things or here is a link to all of my designs on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/GeoDave/designs

  6. #166
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    That one I did not put on thingiverse. Maybe I should. I had not decided whether it was a good idea or not. It is 6 pieces slid over the V-slot to shield the limit switch wires. Probably could have made it in less pieces, but was not sure how long it wanted to be when I designed it. Here is a better photo of it.IMG_9670_800x600.jpg

  7. #167
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    Ah, I see. I used these to cover and protect the wires that run through the v-slot: http://openbuildspartstore.com/slot-cover-panel-holder/

  8. #168
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    Maybe next time I order from there, I will buy some of those. I would especially like to run the X-motor wires through there. I am currently running my X-motor wires across the top. They would not reach going underneath. I saw a design that someone had on thingiverse that is similar to what you showed a link to, but it seemed a little loose on the V-Slot to me & thought it might rattle.

  9. #169
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    Yes, I have my X motor wires running down the bottom slot of the top rail, held in by one of those covers. Can't put them in the top slot, because the cover interferes with the carriage wheels. I have my X switch wires running down the top slot of the bottom rail, under another cover. I set my bed zero point to be bed all the way back (away from you as you face the front of the machine) and X zero to the left. So my X switch is over by the X motor.

  10. #170
    What it looks like. .jpg

    Here is my pegasus. i have had it for a few weeks and been very happy with what it can print. Everything in Orange PLA (hatchbox pla) is printed on it and have had minimal failed prints.

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