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  1. #1

    Anycubic Vyper Review and Testing

    Anycubic Vyper Review
    · 16-point auto-leveling
    · TMC2209 silent stepper driver
    · 4.3-inch touch screen
    · Heated print bed
    · 32-bit motherboard including Cortex M3 main control chip
    · Spring steel magnetic platform
    · Double-gear extrusion system
    · High-precision double screw design

    The AnyCubic Vyper is a new addition of the AnyCubic 3D printers line that aims to fix several issues that may prevent some people from getting into 3D printing. As its first automatic leveling FDM printer, the Vyper is both easy to set up and use within 30 minutes of opening the box.
    The novice-friendly setup and interface are two notable features here. I have managed to get through almost an entire roll of filament during testing with little issue, save a couple issues I had with my octoprint setup
    From opening the box to printing your first test print takes less than a half-hour, and if you’ve put together and set up these types of printers before, it’s even quicker. I had assembled the printer in 5 min and spent another 5 or so doing the first auto level.
    By selecting 'Auto-leveling' you'll start the process, the Vyper carefully probes 16 different locations on the printer bed, making gentle contact on the surface with the nozzle using a pressure sensor. this take less than three minutes to complete, and this calibration is saved, eliminating the need to make frequent adjustments, I generally do a level at the start of my printing day or if I have remove the build plate to clean or remove a print for good measure.
    The automatic leveling feature is easy to find on the interface, clearly labeled on the home screen alongside options to prepare and preheat your filament of choice.
    The heated bed and flexible spring-steel build plate are also exceptional on the Vyper. These features make removing projects easy, and the textured surface didn’t seem to pick up any fingerprints. I have also Printed on the smooth side of the build plate using TPU and PLA results were like using a glass bed. Yet another plus for the Vyper
    The 32-bit motherboard and an ARM Cortex-M3 GD32F103 chip ensure that the Vyper is capable for high speed prints while keeping relatively quiet. Most of the noise comes from the powerful dual 4010 blower fan’s and motherboard fan rather than the movement of the printer itself, and while it's far from silent the levels are low enough to not be a issue.
    Noise measured at around 59 dB while fans were at 100%. turning the fans down would cut that noise out a bit. But, while the fans may be the noisiest part of the unit, once you leave the room, you can barely hear the Vyper. It's also nice to see a wide variety of filament choices that you can use for this printer. I generally do most printing with PLA but tested TPU and PETG with no problems with the extruder or actual printing.

    I did a series of benchmarks and test prints and the AnyCubic Vyper is a very impressive printer straight out of the box. I didn't have any failed prints during testing despite minimal adjustments to the provided settings and cura profile, the Vyper prints were very clean.
    I printed pretty much nonstop for weeks during my review, and nothing seemed to be having any issues or strain at all. Belts and motors are all working fine after easily 100+ hours of printing.
    So is the Anycubic Vyper worth it? If you’re a beginner to 3D printing, absolutely! Even if you’re an experienced maker the Vyper has everything you need out of the box for fantastic Prints.

    · Easy to use for beginners
    · Large print volume
    · Build quality and print quality
    · Auto-leveling feature
    · Helpful instructions

    What I would change
    · Include Silicone sock for hotend
    · Linear Advance and Junction Deviation Missing

    StudioZombie 3D - YouTube
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    so it's almost an ender 3 clone with a really weirdly placed filament sensor.
    surely that should be logically between the reel and the extruder.

    That's got to cause issues with the bowden tube when you're printing on the far left of the bed.
    Not to mention why use a bowden tube at all, on a printer with dual z-axis motors ?
    The dual motors are in their favour.
    But still got a narrow bed guide using wheels.

    Still, if they'd given me one - I'd say it was brilliant too :-)

    That said - it would appear you probably work for anycubic, as the youtube channel has just that printer on it. And seems to be have been setup specifically to review it.
    Now that's just cheap - come on guys, send me one !

    Still it is an improvement on an ender 3.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-25-2021 at 02:22 PM.

  3. #3
    The filament run out is before the extruder and bowden has no issues printing anywhere on the bed. I'd prefer linear rails but the wheels are good and the printer has been solid for the near 300 hours on it. It has been easily out performing my custom ender 3 out of the box. And my channel will have my custom ender 3 and airbrushing but I just started it when I started the studio.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    fair enough.

    So if that big thing sticking out on the left is not the run out sensor - what the hell is it ?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Belt tensioner I think.

  6. #6
    Yep its a belt tensioner

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    I'm talking about this stupid thing with the filament running through it and the bowden tube coming out the right hand side.
    Not sure how you'd use it to tension belts.
    But it's definitely a stupid place to put it, no matter what it is.

  8. #8
    Lol that's the extruder that's where it is on most printers. Then the filament runout is just to the right

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Ah right.
    On most ender style i3 printers the extruder is mounted level with the right hand upright strut.
    Usually on the actual bracket the z-screw goes through.

    That is the only printer on the planet, with it stuck on a little platform to the right of the upright and actually intruding into the build volume.

    Hence my confusion.
    And it's still a damn stupid place to put it lol

    It's an i3 with dual z-screws - just make it a direct drive - like it should be - and have done with it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    It doesn’t intrude into the print volume. Just makes the Bowden shorter.

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