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  1. #311
    Hello,

    I'm having trouble getting larger prints to release from the print bed. I'm using PLA with my Flashforge creator pro. Any tips? I do not want to break the print bed!

    I've tried 50c as a preheat temp. That works for smaller prints.
    At 100c I get goopy melting with my spatula.

    Any tips are appreciated! Thanks

  2. #312
    Technician
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    91
    Well... I haven't tried it myself, but glue stick apparent works both to stick your print down as well as help you release it at the end. Plus, it cleans up with water, so you can use some water on the edges to get it to release.

    Another thing to try is to put the bed and print in the freezer for a while that can help it pop loose.

  3. #313
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    904
    What is the print bed? Is it the blue stuff that comes with it? If so then yes it can be tough. Glue stick may help and also letting it cool completely could help.
    What material? PLA? If so then 65 is as hot as you really need to go.


    Quote Originally Posted by thebomb View Post
    Hello,

    I'm having trouble getting larger prints to release from the print bed. I'm using PLA with my Flashforge creator pro. Any tips? I do not want to break the print bed!

    I've tried 50c as a preheat temp. That works for smaller prints.
    At 100c I get goopy melting with my spatula.

    Any tips are appreciated! Thanks

  4. #314
    Student
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Middlesbrough
    Posts
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by wirlybird View Post
    What is the print bed? Is it the blue stuff that comes with it? If so then yes it can be tough. Glue stick may help and also letting it cool completely could help.
    What material? PLA? If so then 65 is as hot as you really need to go.
    hi, I received my Flashforge Creator Pro (2016 update) yesterday and my first test print in ABS also stuck really strongly to the blue tape covered bed. Do you recommend a thin layer of glue ? I previously had a Geeetech prusa with a glass plate and used a PRITT stick for adhesion. A lot of posts on the forums seem to be about how to make things stick, not how to remove them, so any tips would be appreciated.

  5. #315
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,818
    my advice is to replace glue, tape, glass ete with a sheet of printbite: https://flex3drive.com/printbite/

    I've been using one for over a year now and have needed no glue, scrapers, tape, hairspray etc during that time.
    Prints stick when the bed is hot and can be simply lifted off when the bed is cool. Or, if you're impatient like me, a sharp tap with a hammer: I tend to use the flat back of this axe: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1043415
    Handle is rolled up newspaper.
    My printbite thread s here: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ntbite-surface
    List of my results with different materials is on page 3.

    It's not quite as good as the manufacturers claim - but it's infinitely better than anything else out there at the moment.

    Put it this way. The whole sticking and removing issue is not something I give a thought to anymore.
    You have to experiment and tweak settings to get the best results for each material. But once you've got it dialled in you simply print and remove. With no hassle and nothing else ever needed.

  6. #316
    I have recently purchased a Flashforge Dreamer. I have done about 5 prints well but now the filament is starting to bunch up around the extruder. I have tried to level the plate several times but I am still not getting a good print. I want to try and change the bed temp but I do not see the option to do this. Can anyone help me with this?

  7. #317

    Lighting and Z axis problems

    Hi,
    Having finally battled my way through the dreaded Captcha I'm pleased to join this very useful Forum.

    I found my way here for two reasons
    1. The 'blue light' had gone out after an accidental 'Factory Reset' and there's no option on the printer to turn it back on again and
    2. The Z-axis is too 'high' so the adjustment screws need to be almost completely unscrewed to level the bed - again no option for altering the Z axis zero.
    The problem here (and I think it's relevant to many of the problems users are having) is that the bed floats too much and the slightest touch alters the levelling so the print fails.

    Both these problems are solved by downloading Replicator G.
    I'm not allowed to post links so I'll try to fudge
    thingiverse dot com slash thing colon 32084 slash files

    Connect to printer, (you'll have to find the right COM port) then select "Replicator Dual (Sailfish)" as the machine type.
    There's a menu option underneath the "Machine" menu called Onboard preferences.
    On the extreme right of the tabs is 'Lighting'
    There's a checkbox 'Show heating progress by changing the lighting color' which should be ticked.
    Under that is 'Lighting color during idle or printing' Select 'Blue' and that's fixed.

    Opening a GCode window lets you reset the zero on the Z axis to a more sensible level so there's some compression on the bed springs !

    Hope this helps someone else.
    Last edited by muddledsteve; 11-15-2018 at 10:58 AM. Reason: error !

  8. #318
    good read, dont see alot of information on this

  9. #319
    Thanks for the tips, very helpful!

  10. #320
    Thanks For This great information about FlashForge!

    If you are looking for the best 3D printer for miniature models, then the Flashforge Mini Printer is definitely for you to check detailed review of this printer please visit 3D Printers Point. Although it might cost you a bit more than the other cheap models, you will save a lot of money in the long run because of the quality and the fast speed. As you will be sacrificing some model detail for this higher cost point, however, you might not be disappointed as much as you expected from such a low priced model like the Flashforge. The Flashforge comes with a number of accessories, including a laser-cut model. It also includes a software program which is great for designing the models.

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