Flashforge 3D Creator forum.

[jgurley]

Mine has the PTFE tubes inside the heat tube. I've replaced it many times over the few months I've been printing. I bought some 3mm twist drills that I use to ream out the tube and nozzle, as well. The PTFE is a pretty snug fit and it is sometimes difficult to get the length of the piece just right. Too short and it develops a blockage and too long, and it twists and constricts the filament.
I've looked a new dual extruder (J-style $140 in single qty on Alibaba) but I'm not confident in my ability to deal with the possible changes to firmware to regulate the servo.

A few weeks ago, my printer really started acting up. I have to run the extruder at 240 to 245 to get PLA to print properly - I used to use 190 to 200. Also, I used to have luck with a small fan to reduce curling on my overhangs, but now the fan just cools the nozzle enough to screw up the feed. Maybe my thermister is leaving the room...

I haven't used my left extruder for months. I should try it just to see if the printing temperature is closer to normal. Haven't ever got PVA to work, so I just have the nozzle off so it doesn't snag the print. I think my plate may be warped slightly (up in the middle). I've got some ABS and HPS, but the printer is in the house and I don't think the boss would appreciate the odors. I haven't gotten nylon to work either.

[Stigern]

jgurley:

Do you have the Creator plate or the new thick one?

A friend of mine have a Creator single extruder, and his alu buildplate was like you described.

[3DPBuser]

Is not an all-metal extruder preferred?

[jgurley]

I have a kapton covered aluminum plate. Total thickness of about 1/8".

I'd assume since the PTFE tube increases the complexity, the all metal must be inferior, or they'd junk the PTFE to save money. Small volume markets don't always behave logically, however

[jgurley]

Does anyone know if the CTC will work correctly with the Sailfish firmware? Is there any compelling reason to upgrade?

[Mjolinor]

It should do if it has a Mightyboard in there, take a look. Sailfish is much better.

[jgurley]

I've tried to upgrade my CTC to Sailfish with no luck. Maybe I just haven't gotten lucky with the reset button timing, but before I wear the switch out, which choices do I make?

For"board" I've tried "Flashforge Creator I,II & X" and for the version I've picked 7.7r1427. I tried a few others with no better luck.

[Mjolinor]

The timing is a real bitch and not consistent for different machines.

[jgurley]

Thanks. It eventually got it. I found it was easier to time the "release" of the rest button with hitting enter. It was nearly simultaneous.

[jgurley]

I've lost the formula, somehow. I've made lots of okay prints over the months. I've rebuilt both extruders (new PTFE of precise length), nozzles cleaned, all tightened, cleaned drive wheel. I've upgraded to PTFE feed tubes plus the spring loaded drive mechanisms. I'm just doing single filament PLA, and I'm using the same filament that I've used for quite awhile with success. I installed Sailfish 7.7 as well. I've also got ball bearing spools.

I'm getting drive clicking no matter what the temperature (although I haven't tried above 250, since I've read some things about going too high). I thought it might be a bad thermister, but either extruder does the exact same thing. I'm wondering if there's some way my servo drive signals might be "weak" or something. If I hand force the filament into the drive it goes away, but otherwise, it clicks. At 250 it works for a few inches then clicks, and I can see the thinness of the extrusion. I'm using 40/70 as my speed settings.

What the heck am I doing wrong? The weather has gotten a little more humid, but I don't see any sign of bubbling in the print.