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  1. #101
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    I think it depends on the machine and how many extruders are installed. If it is the Replicator 2 with single print head the amount of mass to move is about half that of a dual print head. There are some 1st and 2nd law of physics going on here. I have the left feedstepper removed along with all the wiring and hot end and I can definitely print at 90mm/s and travel at 150 (Creator X with pro upgrades). However generally I print at 80mm/s and travel at 120. It also depends on the part size I am printing. For small parts I usually back down to 60mm/s and travel at 80. On small parts there just isn't that much travel and I would rather save the wear and tear on the machine. With small parts and acceleration it really doesn't have time to get up to full travel speed anyway.

    I am assuming the default 90/150 is for the Replicator 2 with 1 extruder.
    Yeah good point, you know I never really even thought about the weight of the head, I just sort of assumed naturally it was more an extrusion issue with the head moving too fast to extrude efficiently

  2. #102
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    I have the CTC clone of the FF Creator. Anyone know why the hotend is wrapped in kapton tape? The thermocouple is attached via screw, so the only thing I can imagine is that it's to reduce the heat loss?

  3. #103
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    It probably also has heat resistant material under the Kapton tape. It is to reduce radiated heat, not really in order to keep the head warm, more to stop the hot head melting your print.

  4. #104
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    Thanks for the response. I was contemplating taking it off so I could get a wrench on the thing to tighten the nozzle, but I won't do that! Maybe I'll print a special socket or something. I'm forever having clicking servos due to the nozzle loosening enough to cool down.

  5. #105
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    It is likely that it is not assembled correctly if the nozzle is coming lose,

    When assembling you should tighten the nozzle before the heat tube is screwed in and then the heat tube tightens against an already tightened nozzle.

    If the nozzle is tightening to the heat tube and not the aluminium heat block then they can come lose with heating and cooling.

  6. #106
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    I was assembling the nozzle last. I'll try your suggestion. Thanks again.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgurley View Post
    I have the CTC clone of the FF Creator. Anyone know why the hotend is wrapped in kapton tape? The thermocouple is attached via screw, so the only thing I can imagine is that it's to reduce the heat loss?

    Like another has mentioned it is to insulate the heating block so heat doesn't radiate up as much and overheat the cooling bar. Heat rises so it isn't as much for keeping the heat off the printed material as it is the cooling bar.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    Like another has mentioned it is to insulate the heating block so heat doesn't radiate up as much and overheat the cooling bar. Heat rises so it isn't as much for keeping the heat off the printed material as it is the cooling bar.
    The tape and insulation do not really stop the heat going upwards over much, it is to stop radiation from heating the print and the aluminium bar. Radiation is omnidirectional.

  9. #109
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    Ya, but it is better with than without. Without the cooling bar would heat up to 400 degrees easily over time. With the insulation it only gets to about 250-300 which is far under the melting point of filaments. At 400+ you are risking melting the filament too high in the tube and it will never extrude.

    Acutally the tape is just there to hold the insulation on.

  10. #110
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    It's really a whole complicated can of worms that area of the printer. Newer heat tubes have a 20mm length of 3mm OD - 2mm ID PTFE tube up them. This is a vast improvement on solid stainless ones but beware. I bought some off ebay and on two of the four I bought, the PTFE tube did not go to the top of the 3mm hole. This caused a filament jam that you cannot clear without removing the PTFE, pushing out the bung and replacing the PTFE tube with new. Worth checking for if you have a none working head with new heat tubes in, I suppose that includes new printers too, they are jsut as likely to not fully push that tube home before cutting it off.

    The temperatures in different parts around there are critical for correct operation and they keep correct by design so any changes can have knock on consequences.

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