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  1. #1

    Newbie - ENDER 5 - somewhat lost / buried under information

    Hi All I'm hoping someone can put me on the right track.I have an Ender 5s which I recently started using and reading about. There was all sorts of "you should upgrade" comments. so I upgraded the bowden tube, and bought a glass bed, some TL Smothers, 4.2.7 silent board, and a BL Touch.I have questions The Glass Bed - What temperature does everyone run with, I'm struggling to get prints to stickTL Smoothers - I installed them, BUT with the new 4.2.7 board should I remove them ? the BL Touch and new board. Since I put those in I cannot get the unit to home. Depending on the firmware, it either just beeeeeeeeeps when I turn it on, or goes to Printer FAULT when I try to home it, or moves a bit and then says Stopped on the display.I've tried all sorts of different versions of firmware. Does anyone know what one I should be using, or what I'm doing wrong ? Any help would be greatly appreciated!Thanks !

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    United Kingdom
    To be honest I don't know where to start other than to to say If it wasn't broken why did you fix it !! I know that is not helpful so here goes I will try to help. many years of trouble shooting has taught me one thing if something has failed after a series of Upgrades move back to the last working condition. That may mean removing all your mods and adding them one at a time. Or you could try stepping back each mod one at a time. Incidentally with a glass bed the BLtouch should be redundant since one of the main reasons for using a glass bed is that Borosilicate glass can be manufactured to very high degree of flatness and does not warp at the bed temperatures we are using so once manually levelled the is not needed.

    I don't know anything about TL smoothers but looked them up and theynare just what are otherwise known as catcher diodes and I would have expected them to be already present on your upgrade board.

    Ihope this gives a little help!

  3. #3
    Staff Engineer
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    South Florida, USA
    Add AutoWiz on Facebook
    Perhaps I can shed some light on some of your problems. As we move forward through time we add upper level functions to the brains of our stepper motors. You know the drivers on the mainboard. Some of the more recent additions include stallguard and sensorless homing. These drivers look at the amount of current going out to the motor and are sensitive enough at it that they can tell when they skip a step. This is used to both help our printers ward off skipped steps and also it is used for sensorless homing. The TLsmoothers can only play hell with drivers that are paying such close attention to the current flowing to the stepper motor. And in this light the TLsmoothers will always work better with the older and stupider stepper drivers. Remove them for the newer mainboard and be happy with the newer electronics. And as for the glass temp there are 2 ways to go on this. IF you have a raw aluminum or bare heated bed you are putting the glass directly on top of the heater then 5c above your typical target is where I aim. But IF there is a build surface on top of the heated bed and you are putting a glass plate on top of the build surface on top of the heated bed in these situations I set my bed temp 10c above where I normally would go and everything is happy. If your printing with PLA on bare glass don't forget to wipe it down with white distilled vinegar as the bed warms for good adhesion every time and leave the hair products in the bathroom and the painter's tape in the utility closet. When printing with PETG we should use something like GeckoTek 3D Printer Build Surfaces Scientifically because the PETG bonds a little too good to the bare glass.
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 01-24-2021 at 01:54 PM.

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