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  1. #11
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Which material you use depends on what you want to do with your printing! PLA is the easiest ! Find a filament that works for you and stick too when you find you need to use a different filament material for good cause only then expand you portfolio otherwise that way madness lies.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    @axl -
    I put a square of thin vellum paper under the mat to raise the center a little.
    Brilliant - and very simple. That's a simple and ingenious solution, I would not have though of. NICE !

    And yep - stick with pla.
    There are only a couple of very specific reasons for ever using abs. And you will most likely find that easier to use filaments like pet or pet-g will do a better job anyway :-)

  3. #13
    Engineer-in-Training
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    If 3d Printing is hobby it unlikely you will find any good reason to use anything but PLA or possibly PET-G other than just trying it to see if you can make it work. If you are using 3D printing commercially the story is different you choose the filament for the job which sometimes makes life much more difficult. In any case find a filament make and material that works for you and stick to it ! Not all PLAs o ABSs etc are the same . For example of the 4 types of ABS we have tried only 2 can be relied upon to print reliably on our set up . Nylon is the same 5 tested 3 work for us.

  4. #14

    First Layer

    After you level your bed plate, check that the center of your plate where most of your print is formed is low enough to really squish the first layer down on the plate. Also I have my plate temp. at 65 and have no adhesion issues at all.

  5. #15
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    @ gambo - 3 nylons ?
    Which ones are they ?

    I find that taulman 225 (245 ?) works well and mymat nylon from italy - work well in an unheated enclosure. But everything else had no luck with at all.

    Taulman bridge is one of the worst - but, as mentuioned this is all in an unheated build volume.

  6. #16
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Hi If it is any help I use Spectrum PA6 LW Taulman 230 and I have to say Taulman Bridge. I use that at 260C first Layer 255C following layers and a 60C bed 70mm/S I don't use bridge often I preferer Taulman 230 for soft nylons printed at 255C all layers with 55C bed.
    Spectrum PA6LW I really like it is a hard nylon which gives a very good finish. I print that a nominal 260C other wise as the Tauman 230.


    When I started with the nylons I fiddled around with a lot of different beds including several of the much praised proprietary beds but came down to using Tufnol Sheet lightly sanded ( re-sanded very rarely) with no coating at all but cleaned every print with Acetone.

    I have made a lot of valve assembly parts this way including some designs 30mm high 15 mm dia but only having the periphery 1 or 1.5 in contact with the bed plate using a skirt. No adhesion problems ith either 230 o PA6LW.

    Bigger items Large vessel tops with integrated valves 75mm by 30mm have printed in PA6LW without any sign of warping.

    In an enclosure but un heated

  7. #17
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Hmm search for 'Spectrum PA6LW' turns up exactly no matches.
    where do you get that from ?

    Taulman 230 c !
    That's the fella :-)

  8. #18
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Hi Spectrum Filaments in Poland make it http://en.spectrumfilaments.com

    search for Poliamide_Nylon-PA6-Low-Warp

    I buy it direct from them .

  9. #19
    How do you convert STL to Gcode.

  10. #20

    Reply

    Quote Originally Posted by OOL View Post
    How do you convert STL to Gcode.
    You must use a software program on your computer like “Cura” and “slice” it, so you get the .gcode file.

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