Close



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
  1. #11
    Student papabur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    47
    Follow papabur On Twitter Add papabur on Facebook Add papabur on Google+ Add papabur on Thingiverse
    As a student of both AutoCAD and SolidWorks, I think you will find SolidWorks to be your best bet and if you a student you can get a copy of it for free! All you need is a student email address and you can get it from the main Solidworks site.

    I feel held back when i use AutoCAD after using SolidWorks to be honest...AutoCAD is very clean and the only advantage is the command line functionality..but other then that...SolidWorks is by far better..IMO. Let us know what you end up going with and how it works for you, thanks!

  2. #12
    Super Moderator JohnA136's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    548
    Yes, you should measure the cube! It should be 20mm by 20mm and 10mm high.

  3. #13
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Ohio
    Posts
    62
    Add kennycoulter on Facebook Add kennycoulter on Google+
    the cube printed with an extra base, that was about 1.3mm high, and about 30 x30mm..... then printed the cube, which measured 20.1 roughly x 19.7 roughly. height, 11.3 roughly, because of the base. I also printed the chain, and was very impressed. my girlfriend said she couldn't understand why I wanted to spend the money or why I was so excited, until she finally got to see what it could do , and we watched a few more youtube videos of nerdgasm(?) printing. I tried to place a file from work into makerware, but the part was scaled from the start due to metric and inch conversions, but also rotated on its side. I rotated it, and "placed" it onto the surface, but when it printed, it made a crescent shape base (half of the object), then started trying to print... which just threw random strands out, since there wasn't a surface. I am excited to say that the software that I know can be used to save as a stl, and just opened in makerware! any other tips are appreciated.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator JohnA136's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    548
    By default the Replicator will print a "skirt" around the object, is this what you are referring to? This is done to make sure the nozzle is primed and the filament has a chance to stick to the build surface.

  5. #15
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Ohio
    Posts
    62
    Add kennycoulter on Facebook Add kennycoulter on Google+
    yes. the chain printed without it. impossible for me to break the cube away from this 'skirt'. it did it automatically for a fragile work part, that I wanted to use as a test to see how accurate it could be.

  6. #16
    Kenny, Inventor can export .stl just fine, Just go to inventor > Export > Cad format > choose .stl as file type and save it. Thats in fact the only program i use to handle models for 3d printing, except for netfabb to fix broken stl's from thingiverse.

  7. #17
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Ohio
    Posts
    62
    Add kennycoulter on Facebook Add kennycoulter on Google+
    Quote Originally Posted by Mysli View Post
    Kenny, Inventor can export .stl just fine, Just go to inventor > Export > Cad format > choose .stl as file type and save it. Thats in fact the only program i use to handle models for 3d printing, except for netfabb to fix broken stl's from thingiverse.
    I haven't had any other problems, but I printed a part for myself, and had to use the 'scaffolding' command. I am still printing with PLA, and it is VERY brittle/hard to break the scaffolding. I may have lost some details, or may have to sand my part to get it how I want it.... I will try to post some pictures eventually.

  8. #18
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Toronto, Ohio
    Posts
    62
    Add kennycoulter on Facebook Add kennycoulter on Google+
    so, for my cube(with the scaffolding cut away)....I re-measured it again, to be about 20.08 x 19.75 x 10.14. what can I do to get this to be more accurate? do I keep adjusting the table? is this as accurate as I can expect the prints to be? I noticed some bulging in my round car part that I made... https://www.facebook.com/kenny.coulter.7 here is my facebook, if anyone wants to add me or check out my pictures.
    right now, I am trying to 'correct' a friend's creation drawn in skethup to print.....still having some issues getting a watertight part.

  9. #19
    Student PrinterNinja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Wellington, Florida, USA
    Posts
    24
    Another CAD program to consider is Rhino. It has an academic version at low cost as well, but it doesn't cut you off after a year like Solidworks does. (Note, I'm a long time SW user and love it, but it was out of my price range and I had already used my academic version up). Rhino is not a parametric modeler like SW or inventor, but it gets the job done and gives you a little more flexibility with organic shapes. Just something else to consider...

  10. #20
    thanks for the suggestions. i was supposed to create a thread for this but I got all the answers here. especially the convert advice, its a prefect workaround. :-)

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •