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  1. #1

    Anycubic i3 Mega S - Oh nuts!

    Hi,

    I recently bought an Anycubic i3 Mega S.

    I was having an issue with the first layer that a tip from curious aardvark on this thread I started, helped me solve: https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....d=1#post145228

    Essentially, I didn't realise that the bed-level needed to be checked frequently, as the vibrations during printing throw it out of whack. curious aardvark suggested locking-nuts, so I designed and print some into which you just need to fit M3 nuts. A good reasonably firm tap with a hammer settles the nut in place. A slightly-too-small hole behind the nut to increase the friction so that vibrations don't shift it. The idea seems to work.

    I have attached the STL here in case anyone finds it helpful for their printer.

    Cheers
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by thegoodguy View Post
    Hi,

    I recently bought an Anycubic i3 Mega S.

    I was having an issue with the first layer that a tip from curious aardvark on this thread I started, helped me solve: https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....d=1#post145228

    Essentially, I didn't realise that the bed-level needed to be checked frequently, as the vibrations during printing throw it out of whack. curious aardvark suggested locking-nuts, so I designed and print some into which you just need to fit M3 nuts. A good reasonably firm tap with a hammer settles the nut in place. A slightly-too-small hole behind the nut to increase the friction so that vibrations don't shift it. The idea seems to work.

    I have attached the STL here in case anyone finds it helpful for their printer.

    Cheers
    Actually I gave myself too much credit there. I didn't design the piece. I amended the this helpful work: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080831

  3. #3
    Hi,

    I recently bought an Anycubic i3 Mega S.

    I was having an issue with the first layer that a tip from curious aardvark on this thread I started, helped me solve: https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....d=1#post145228

    Essentially, I didn't realise that the bed-level needed to be checked frequently, as the vibrations during printing throw it out of whack. curious aardvark suggested locking-nuts, so I designed and print some into which you just need to fit M3 nuts. A good reasonably firm tap with a hammer settles the nut in place. A slightly-too-small hole behind the nut to increase the friction so that vibrations don't shift it. The idea seems to work.

    I have attached the STL here in case anyone finds it helpful for their printer.

    Cheers
    good idea but isn't it easier just to screw the thing altogether

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by samll View Post
    good idea but isn't it easier just to screw the thing altogether
    I'm sorry, I don't follow what you mean. What are you referring to when you say "the thing"?

  5. #5
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    to use locking nuts you need a 'knob/wheel' with a void that you can press the locking nut into.

    You don't screw it together :-)
    {looks at thingiverse page)

    Don't think that's at all what I meant lol

    Are the brass things the knobs that came with the printer ?

    I don't think I've posted either of mine on thingiverse yet.
    But they use these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/M3-3mm-Nylo...5797280&sr=8-5

    So instead of a normal 3mm nut your blue wheel would seat one of those.
    They have a nylon insert that grips the bolt thread very firmly and stops the nut from moving by itself.

    You could simply replace the brass part with afully 3d printed knob with the locking nut in the base.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 11-19-2020 at 09:51 AM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    So instead of a normal 3mm nut your blue wheel would seat one of those.
    They have a nylon insert that grips the bolt thread very firmly and stops the nut from moving by itself.

    You could simply replace the brass part with afully 3d printed knob with the locking nut in the base.
    This is essentialy what I did, only, effectively, I printed the nylon resistance-ring as part of the knob. I checked the plate level after a couple of prints and it's holding firm

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    difference is that over time the pla will wear the nylon in the nut doesn;t. mind you if it works then you shouldn't be moving the nut that often anyway.
    so - good for you :-)

    I have a mate who works in a local brewery and gets really upset when I mention rude phrases like: 'buying nuts and bolts'.
    Apparently that's what the factory engineering stores is for ;-)
    So I always have locking nuts of various sizes at hand.

    He's due for early retirement next year.
    I suspect the stores will see a mysterious spate of mass dissappearances just before he leaves ;-)

  8. #8
    I have a similar solution: the PETlock - printable in PET, ABS or Nylon:
    https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-142792

    Easier to assemble: no hammer needed, just an M3 screw to form the thread in the plastic (doing this before fitting to the printer is easier than doing it underneath the bed).

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