3D Printing of Small Bracket

[CRMS]

Many thanks for your comprehensive reply.

Just got the HDMI bracket. Well impressed, the nylon/chopped carbon is very smooth and Z axis really good. Having seen how solid the n/cc is, I'm sure it would be fine for my gooseneck block.

Having seen how solid the n/cc is, I'm sure it would be fine for my gooseneck block.


Which mods on TT Sapphire Pro - enclosure and ??


Qidi machines at - https://www.3djake.uk/qidi-tech/x-plus


I'll keep looking and thinking, but think nylon chopped carbon capability would be good.


>wifn surfer widget - google didn't produce anything??


>hi-temp hotend - I assume that is heading to 250C instead of 120C ish??


Is the slicing software also used for design/drawing up an object.. Or something else??


Yes, would be great to come up and talk after lockdown but my credit card might be bent before lockdown ends.

[curious aardvark]

lmao - wind surfer widget - your gooseneck joint :-)
I either tyoe faster than I think or I think faster than I type - or often both at the same time, sometimes I can't be arsewd to fix the typos ;-)

lol drop me a pm and we can have a phone chat.
yeah i saw the qidi at 3d jakes - not the model I was looking for.

They used to be on amazon - but dissappeared.

A high temp hotend is one that goes to at least 300c :-) most decent standard hotends (ie: not ender 3 or most budget printers) will run at 260 fairly steadily.
The esun cf nylon recommended 280c.
So you need a better heater cartridge and an all metal hotend. And a hardened steel or sapphire tipped nozzle would also be a very good idea.
Carbon fibre bits are really abrasive and will eat a brass nozzle fairly swiftly.

Also with a hi temp hotend you can print polycarbonate - seriously tough stuff but needs 270-280 for decent prints. I've done a couple small prints at 260, but it's not ideal.
With a lot of the proper industrial plastics the heat of printing effects the final crystallisation and strength and properties of the part.

There are other things you can do to strengthen parts: pla can be annealed - basically cooking at low temp in an oven. Or you can pack a print in fine ground salt and cook it at high oven temps so that it remelts and reforms as a solid block.
Essnetially you're using the print as it's own model and forging it.

There's lots of fun stuff to play with :-)

currently trying to print a couple of innovative 608 bearings: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628063
First two efforts total failure. i think this could replace the iris box as an: 'if you can print this you can print anything' test print. :-)

iris box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1817180