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Thread: My First CoreXY

  1. #101
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    looks like it can walk about by itself :-)

    what does the machine weigh ?

  2. #102
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    A lot. The weight of the frame plus about 10lbs or 5 rolls of the PETG filament. But then there is the bed. OMG is that bed heavy. It is the tronXY 500x500 2 pc aluminum heatbed but I have added the 450x450 silicone mains powered heater, a sheet of cork, and that 4mm thick 510x510 Creality Ultrabase. But that is good. I don't want weight on the gantry but on the frame is good and even on the bed is ok. It will help keep things from rocking around from the inertia created by the moving X and Y. Or so I hope. And I will keep that extruder and carriage as light as possible.

    I am really happy with the dual Z auto align and G34 command on the IDEX. So much so that I am really thinking about getting 2 more lead screws and steppers and running 4 motors for Z. The Octopus has 8 driver sockets. I can use 4 for z 2 for x and y 1 for e and still have an open socket for future expansion.

  3. #103
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    With the legs done I think the next piece I want to work on is the DD extruder mount. Whilst ordering my LGX from Bondtech Dual Drive Extruders and Extrusion Upgrade Kits I came across this really cool part cooling fan duct that is a really good design and blows air on both sides of the part and uses a 4020 fan. It is made for the artillery sidewinder. I ordered it with the extruder and acquired the fan and then I used them on the IDEX conversion for a BMG-M extruder with Mosquito. I was really happy with how it all came out and so I hunted down those parts again and now I just have to copy my design over to the TronXY carriage.


  4. #104
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    So because of the bed and frame dimensions if I mount the LGX extruder facing forward like I did with the IDEX then I will loose bed space. So I have chosen to mount the extruder on it's side so the nozzle can be tucked in closer to the carriage so it will be able to reach to the rear edge of the 510x510 Creality Ultrabase. The BL touch will mount just to the side of the part cooling fan and in front of the pancake stepper motor. Here is my design..



    It is 20 minutes into printing out with a 0.4mm nozzle and at 0.3mm layer height on this rig: GEEETech i3 32bit Rework (3dprintboard.com) a.k.a. Old Blue

  5. #105
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    Well and so goes the thing about rapid prototyping. Sometimes the first time around isn't right. My V1 mount looks the part for sure but the part cooling fan is not in a happy place. It is a bit too low and a bit too far forward. Also the fan mount seems kinda flimsy and I can easily move the fan around while it is secured to the mount. So here is the V1 mockup..



    And my V2 mount is printing out now.

  6. #106
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol yeah, the constant desire to 'just nudge this bit over a few tenths of a mil' - does add to the time.
    But just think how absolutely incredibly amazing it is that we can even do this at all !

    I don't think I'll ever lose the wonder of holding a solid thing in my hands that was just a thought, a few hours earlier.

    Just blows me away every single time :-)

  7. #107
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    Ya buddy. I will never loose my interest in this. Or I don't think I will. It took 3 revisions to get that mount right. And any and all can freely go download it right here: TronXY X5SA LGX Mount by AutoWiz - Thingiverse

  8. #108
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    pretty sure I still have the install files for 123d, I know i have a 'how to book' .

    Hav eto look it up - there's not much you can;t do with openscad - but really complicated parts can generate some extremely long scripts and I'm not the most organised script writer lol

  9. #109
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    Ya I only learned the very basics in autodesk and when I try others like even tinkercad I have difficulty finding my way around and find it just easier to use the 123d design. I need to start playing with others until I find one I like or watch some youtube tutorials or something.

    Speaking of Youtube. I found this video from 12/2016 I made of my then new home made 3d printer with optical X and Y endstops. I know it is weird to see with a mechanical Z endstop switch. I wouldn't do that today..

    My Home Made 3D Printer - YouTube

    It is those optical endstops that I am installing on this printer. I always liked them and for me they are unique to my home made printer so that is what I want to do here. So on the backside of the extruder I have mounted an optical sensor for the X min endstop and mounted a flag to the end of the gantry so it will trigger the sensor right as the nozzle hits the edge of that Creality Ultrabase..



    And for Y there will be no min endstop. Just one at the max position at the rear of the frame..



    And for anybody that watched the first video this one is just 2 months later in 2/2017 and I had already got rid of that Z microswitch and was playing with ABL..

    Auto bed leveling - YouTube

  10. #110
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    Moving right along the screen is mounted along with the power switch. Front and center and out of the way no matter the bed, gantry, or carriage positions..



    We still have to mount the power supply, SSR, UPS, power receptacle, smart filament sensor, filament spool, and cable chains before the wiring can begin. But we're getting there. And if anybody out there is looking for a mount for the BTT TFT70 V3.0 I shared the .stl file for it here: TFT70 v3 2040 extrusion mount by AutoWiz - Thingiverse

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