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Thread: My First CoreXY

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  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    lol well the pet-g I was playing with was creality.
    Nothing wring with their parts - it's just the way they bolt them together that's so awful :-)

    You do know that even for PEEK you 'only' need a bed that goes to 250c ?
    400c would seem like overkill - even for you :-)

    As far as functional parts goes - nope pla is a lot more rigid, a lot harder and won't be used for anything that gets hot. Petg is really soft and flexible by comparison.
    Also the layer bonding on pla is at least as good as pet-g.

    The 20x20 extrusion I made with pla was impossible to break just using your hands.
    My dad did manage, but only by using a metal rail as a lever (a man who see's the phrase: 'virtually indestructible' as a challenge rather than a statement). But even then it did not snap cleanly across layers, but at a diagonal. And those I rattled off at 0.4mm layer and 150mm/s speed.

    Not maiing a corexy - thinking about making a tiny belt machine :-)
    I still have a bunch of miniature stepper motors.
    And i figure I can make the triagonal (triangular ? lol) frame ends in one piece on the sapphire. Rigid they will be.
    I figure I can probably make everything needed without any metal frame pieces. It's not go9ing to be a speed demon.
    Any metal necessary i can get in aluminium. Oh yeah and i can cut my own acrylic - keep forgetting about that lol
    Plus I do have abunch of 20x20 and 20x40 aluminium extrusion in my original diode laser engraver. As I now have a modified k40, the diode frame and motors are basically there for parts.

    Just looking at the actual belt machine, it seems pretty simple. dual z screws for the up and down z-axis, simple belt setup for the x axis. The firmware is available. The black knight project (something like that anyway) - WHITE knight :-)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3324280
    That's a big one 400x400xinfinity
    I'm thinking a 300x100xwhatever - height really isn't important, when you can reorient and print lengthwise.
    It'll be primarily for mass produced doodads, doohickeys and whatnots. As well as any really long bits - like sword blades for cosplayers etc.
    the turbo skr boards have all the right connections and should take the firmware. I think I have just about everything else in here somewhere. The belt material is the only real issue.

    The only slightly tricky bit is 'bed'calibration - which i suspect would make more sense adjusting the extruder height rather than adjusting the bed.
    Really just an idea at the moment :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-08-2020 at 10:41 AM.

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