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  1. #1

    Robo 3D R1 vs Ender 3

    Hi everyone,

    I assume these two are rarely compared due to the different prices and year of release.
    I am able to pick up a used R1 for cheaper than a new Ender 3.

    On paper, they seem rather similar, with identical accuracy (100 microns) but the R1 has auto bed-leveling and (a) direct drive (motor?).
    Plus, the used R1 has the "E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd".

    So the R1 overall looks better equipped and with a nicer design, but it seems to be an older model and I wonder if much has changed in those years.

    Thanks.



  2. #2
    As an R1+ owner, I'll suggest that the Robo will be a better deal. Don't discount for a moment the value of the mesh bed leveling. Once tuned in properly, it's a dream. I bought a used one a while ago and had to replace the bed heater connectors, as they are under-rated for the load applied and burned up quite nicely. When/if you get it, pop it free of the mainboard. If there's charring, replace them. Not much money, plus it gives you a feel for how easy it is to work on the printer.

    I bought the Robo because one of our makerspace members had one and I've helped him with the bed heater problem. He's quite happy with his and gets top-end results.

    I did the E3Dv6 hot end replacement and it's pretty easy too. You have to print a locking arm or have someone print it for you, to properly secure the hot end in place, but yours has that taken care of. Check that the bowden tube segment ( very short ) is cut at an angle at the top, to give you the best results if you print flexible stuff.

    I've managed to pull a few chunks of glass from the bed and have yet to replace it. I'm not sure why that happened, as I use glue stick to prevent it. That could happen on any printer with a glass bed.

    I think you'll be happier with a Robo3D R1+ than an Ender, but that's just my informed opinion.

  3. #3
    Thank you for the detailed reply. I should clarify that it is the regular, non-PLUS version that I've found.
    In addition, the seller told me he received the printer for free from a friend in a non-working condition and had to re-do some wiring and replace the print head (extruder), and now it works well (again, according to the seller).

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yeah the robo.
    IT's just better mechanics.

    And nothing that make s a huge difference to an i3 has changed in the last few years. I believe prusa is still using 8bit boards on the mk3.

    What you need to bear in kind is that the ender3 design team deliberately took several steps BACKWARD in order to save money.
    It might have a newer motherboard, but without decent engineering and mechanicals to back it up - you're essentially gilding dog turds :-)

    (I know I know - but the creality fanboys haven't shouted at me for a while and you kind of miss it ;-)

  5. #5
    Thank you both. It turned out that the Robo seller needed to keep it for a while to fix his newer printer (funny how that works) and so I ended up ordering an Ender 3 Pro.
    I expect to have to tinker with it a bit to get good results but I think I'll enjoy it.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well the single most important thing you can do is to add another z-screw.
    Some cheapo kits around and plenty of solutions on thingiverse.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4373101

    Thats pretty much the biggest issue with most of the creality i3's.

    Once you've got a stable x gantry - you convert to direct extruder and then you've got a printer :-)

  7. #7
    So I should add a z-screw such as this?
    https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D...r_warehouse=CN

    Also, do the aforementioned mods require any extra purchases, such as a timing belt?

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