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  1. #1

    FlashForge Adventure 3 Lite Help!

    Hi Everyone!I just recently acquired my first 3D printer, a FlashForge Adventure 3 Lite. My first print (a spool extender so I can use 1kg filament spools) came out perfectly. The other few prints, not so much. The parts of the prints that are printed directly to the raft seem to come out just fine. But the parts that are printed on top of supports don't seem to be so lucky... I've been using the software that came with the printer (FlashPrint on Mac), and it seems to be really great with importing, positioning and automatically creating supports when needed. The problem comes when I have to print on top of the supports. I have told the printer to use Tree supports (55 degree, 3mm post diameter, 6mm base diameter, and 6mm base height). When the printer begins the job, everything seems perfect. The raft is perfect, the base of whatever it is seems perfect, and the supports seem to print perfectly. But once the printer tries to lay filament on those supports, it goes bad. I am not sure if the supports are melting away, but that seems to be what is happening. And because of that, often the parts that print on top of them are printed incorrectly, or sag, or whatever. All of the filament in that area gets all curly and kind of just falls apart. It's not the typical silky threads that I've heard so much about-this is pieces of the actual project. I've looked in at the project, and everything seems fine. I go back later, and parts have been totally destroyed. Anyone have any ideas? I have tried changing the temperature, doesn't seem to make a difference. I am using PLA and have never used any other material in this printer. This happened on my second print, so I don't really think any parts could be worn out. I'm printing on High (Slower) mode.PLATemp: 220, 210, 200, 195Layer Height: .12mmPlatform: 50 CBase Print Speed: 40mm/sTravel Speed: 70mm/sRetraction Length: 5mmRetraction Speed: 25mm/sOnly Retract When Crossing: NoTree Support: Space to model: .2 mm Shell Count: Tried 3 and 4 Auto Setup Z Hop: YesNo wall, no brimCooling Fan: Always OnBack Fan: Always OnZ-Hop: Tried both disable and always enableThanks!!
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  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    your retractions are really long and really slow for a direct drive extruuder.
    That could be causing problems.
    Particular with the relatively (to the printing speed) fast travel speed.

    Bear in mind that a retraction is two operations - retract and then re-extrude.
    So what you are actually doing is moving 10mm of filament - slowly, while the printhead carries on moving.
    That has to introduce places where the filement hasn't started re-extruding.
    And that will effect layer adhesion and definitely adhesion to supports.
    I generally try and keep my travel speeds close to my printing speeds.
    To reduce problems caused by acceleration and deceleration.

    It reduces 'bits' that get pulled by the sudden acceleration of the nozzle and gives the retractions time to work.
    Also with a direct drive extruder - relatively small movements have greater effects on retraction.

    The retraction settings you have make very little sense. They're large enough for a bowden extruder setup, but slow enough for flexible filament on a direct drive extruder.

    I don't think I've ever used more than 2mm retraction length on a dd extruder.
    But retraction speed needs to be as high as the printer will reliable support.
    usually between 60-70.

    try 2mm at 65mm/s
    Also you've basically listed 4 printing temps - you only need 1 :-)
    200c should be right for the speed you're printing at.

    Try that and see if it makes any difference :-)

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