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Thread: Printer rebuild

  1. #1
    Student
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    1

    Printer rebuild

    Hi guys,

    I have a Solidoodle 3, or 4, I can't remember which, it's been a long time.

    The only think I'm keeping as is are the frame, motors, belts. Can I get recommendations for the following componets?

    - Board
    - I don't need multiple extruders
    - Would like the ability to run fans as needed on extruders,
    - 6 limit switches, 2 (min, max) on each of the 3 axis)
    - Power supply
    - extruder (want to print nylon, high temp plastics, etc)

    I also don't care about things like the current stepper connectors don't fit the new board's connectors and such, I can take care of cutting the stepper wires and using new connectors on those, and such other things.

    Would like it to get parts as good as they get, but without spending as much money as it would take to buy a new printer. I know that good and cheap don't really go together, but there's a middle ground right?

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by IAmAManWhoWalksAlone; 06-17-2020 at 09:27 AM. Reason: Typos

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,818
    well from a board point of view the skr 1.4 turbo is a great place to start.
    And all boards seem to have 6 end stop connectors - well all of mine do.

    It's fast, 32bit , has plenty connections, including 2 z motors connectors and will take any of the current crop of stepper motyor controllers - and it's ridiculously cheap.

    I got the board, 3.5inch touch screen and 5 stepper controllers for £32 delivered. And they came in 2 weeks ! last month, from china !
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IGTREETEC...53.m2749.l2649

    extruder wise - whatever you like really. You going for direct drive (recommended) or bowden setup ?
    And if thinking about bowden consider a flex3drive: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IGTREETEC...53.m2749.l2649

    The important part is the hotend.
    That needs to be all metal and have an upgraded heater cartridge - you need to be able to sustain 300c for long periods of time.
    That'll give you polycarbonate functionality.

    The best extruders I have are the simplest.
    But people seem to like complicated things with gears and double driver gears.

    My delta has a really basic one and does much speed and god precision over a bowden setup. That's just a spring loaded toothe gear pusahing against a channelled bearing. It doesn't get much smpler.
    So it's personal choice really.

    My new sapphire pro has a geared extruder with twin toothed driving gears - and it weighs more than the direct drive setup on my replicator clones WITH the hotends attached !

    No doubt some people will argue for the fancy ones - I just go with what I know works :-)

    from a power supply point of view - look for led psu's NOT 3d prnter.
    reason being they are ther exact same thing - but the led community pay less for them :-)
    24 volt is preferable. But it depends what sort of print bed you intend to use - and if you're going to use a mosfet and power it direct from the mains connection.

    My delta is 12 volt, my replicator clone is 24 - bed areas are similiar (just different shapes) I've never noticed any real difference in how fast the hotend and beds heat up or in the stability.
    Personally I'd go for 24 volt - because there's no reason not to :-)

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