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  1. #1

    Imprecision between layers - Anycubic i3 Mega

    I'm fine-tuning an anycubic i3 mega that has had a lot of problems for a long time and I find that the precision between the layers poor. In slightly elongated and thin pieces it is seen a lot.

    WhatsApp Image 2020-03-28 at 20.49.32.jpg


    What could I do or what should I change to improve it?

    Thank you and sorry for my english!

  2. #2
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    On my 3D Printer getting Z-Stripping which kind of looks like what I see on the image you posted.

    To solve this problem I wrapped a single wrap of electricians tape on the lead-screw and press it into the coupler.
    This keeps the Z-Wobble to a minimum on the lead-screw side of the couplers. I also had to align the Z-Axis so it did not bind for the whole Z travel.

    Below is a sample of Z-Stripping
    Model on left is with tape model on right is without tape.

    2mm Layer Shifting.jpg

    I tried to use these 3D Printed couplers that I 3D Printed and found the below Aluminum couplers were many times better.
    Coupler.jpg

  3. #3
    I apologize because I have not understood anything of what you have told me about the coupler and the wrap of electricians .

    I have tightened the screws and the belts and the truth is that it is better, but it is still not enough.

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Since you have provided no info on what material you are printing with or any of the basic setting info needed I will make a guess or two. These are small part, and you are only printing one at a time. Looks like they are over heated and printed too fast. When making changes to the slicer you change only 1 thing and then print. Change more than one and you will never get it right or understand what each thing does. First thing to do is slow down. I would probably print those things at 20mmS if they are as small as I think. If that does not help, next time I would set my extruder temp to the lowest number the manufacture suggest. The other thing I would do is print 2 at one this allows the layer to cool while the other model is being printed..
    Good luck

  5. #5
    Sorry for the lack of information.


    I am using PLA, right now printing at 200ยบ which is the temperature at which it is best for me to print it.
    The speed is 50-60mm / s.


    Now I'm going to try to print those small pieces at a slower speed and I will hang the photo again (regardless of the speed it will look better because of the improvements I have already made, that's for sure.


    Regardless of this, the columns do have an evident excess of speed and temperature, but for the other two I have printed them with another printer with the same parameters and the result is very, very different.


    EDIT:

    There's no a lot of difference

    [img=https://img.overpic.net/thumbs/m/7/v/xm7vscpsgle7jfymv6ms5_s.jpeg]
    Last edited by apares8; 03-29-2020 at 10:09 AM.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what slicer are you using ?

    It's like you're over extruding - which is common with cura - download and try prusa slicer: https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/

  7. #7
    I was actually using cura.

    I downloaded Prusa and did the test. Maybe a little better, but not remarkable.


  8. #8
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Below is a sample of Z-Stripping
    Model on left is with tape model on right is without tape.

    2mm Layer Shifting.jpg



    Z-Stripping is caused when the Lead-screw warbles as it spins, causing the different layer extrusion to be offset from the previous layer.

    You can test simply by raising and lowering the Z-Axis if you can see the lead-screw wobble this will cause Z-Stripping in above image.

  9. #9
    I've seen this and the lead-screws seems okay.

  10. #10
    How can I change the esteps for the motor of my extruder in the anycubic?. Maybe this could be the problem.

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