Totally new to 3D software and printing... but here's what I wanna do...

[jwrAMC]

I'll try to keep this short and sweet.

I collect 1:18 scale diecast metal cars, mainly vintage US muscle cars. Generally speaking, each ends up about 10 or 11" long. But certain ones are not produced at all, and one in particular is a model I want in my collection very much.

So, starting from scratch, with the final goal being to render a finished 10" long car I can then paint and detail myself, some info and questions-

I found this 3D model today online:
http://www.flatpyramid.com/3d-models...o-max-file-max

In the details, they state: "Currently this 3D Model does not contain files that have been optimized for 3D Printing, please click on the Source Files tab to see which file formats are available."
Does this mean the file cannot be used for 3D printing or... ?

and that leads to-

"Available Source 3D Model File Formats 3D Studio Max file (.max) [2012] 7.39 MB

Description

AMC JavelinAMX 71 3D Model In 3D Studio Max File (.Max)

Specifications

Plugins Used: V-Ray

Geometry: Polygonal
Polygons: 222,732

Vertices: 667,195

Textures: Yes
Materials Yes
Animated: No
Rigged: No"

Rendered, it looks very good (tho the ride height needs to be raised a bit). See the link above for screen captures or the attached picture, below.

What software would be best suited to tweaking such a model, such as taking it apart to create separate pieces to assemble after 3D printing?
I'd want to remove the glazing, griilework/lights/bumpers, doors, hood, trunklid/spoiler, interior "tub", chassis, tires/wheels... all to allow
me to make these pieces movable on the final assembled car.

Getting WAY ahead of myself, what would your recommendations be for a lowest-cost 3D printer than can still produce a 10" long piece and give it a very smooth finish? Anything under $1000 worth considering?

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.

(And if this post is somehow in the wrong category/sub-foum, my apologies... and admins- please feel free to relocate this post)

[awerby]

There's a big difference between something that will render and something that will print successfully. A tiny invisible hole can confuse the printer since it doesn't know what is inside or outside, so it tries to print impossibly thin surfaces, which doesn't work. Instead of trying to tweak a random model constructed by someone else in a program you're not familiar with, starting from scratch in a solid modeling program you've learned makes better sense.

Ten inches is within the envelope of some relatively inexpensive 3D printers on the market, but none of them print very smooth surfaces. It's possible to smooth them after printing, either by dissolving the surfaces slightly or by building them up and sanding down, but that can be a lot of work.

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com