3D printer stops extruding halfway through print with new PETG filament

[lukuky64]

I've had my Da Vinci 1.0A printer for about 3 years and have had much success printing with ABS. I have only tried PLA a few times but they have turned out quite well. A few days ago I decided to try out some PETG black filament by ESUN. My first print was a bit messy, but it worked. I had to adjust the Z layer height as the nozzle was a little too close to the masking tape on the bed, so that's fixed. Currently I just have a fan set up beside the bed, cooling the layers but I was trying to print a fan duct to replace it. It seems every time I try print this or any other object (I've tried the 3d benchy also but stopped extruding halfway) it starts off fine until about 15 minutes in when it decides to stop extruding and I hear a clicking noise coming from the extruder meaning it must be jammed or something. I pulled the filament out and this is what it looks like. But I think it only has the imprints because when it got jammed the gears were still trying to feed it through.
IMG_0923.JPG

My printer only allows the use of their filament cartridges but I am able to reset the chip inside them and feed my own filament in as if its a brand new one, i've been doing this with ABS for a long time so it has no issues. Also the program used doesn't allow advances customisation but I found the Pro version that allows temperature and speed adjustments.

These are the settings I used:
3D Printer Settings:
- ABS (there is no options for PETG, its just ABS and PLA, I tried using PLA but there is no difference as the temp gets overridden anyway)


- 50% infill density (done 10%, same issue)
- Honey Comb infill
- Thick Shell (tried normal and thin shell, same issue)
- 0.20 mm Layer Height (tried 0.30 mm, same issue)


Advanced (test) settings:
- 40mm/s speed
- 245 degrees C nozzle temp (have tried, 250 degrees, 230, 235, 240, all the same issue)
- 2mm retract length (tried 3mm, same issue)
- 25mm/s retract speed (tried 30mm/s, same issue)
- 75 degrees C bed temp (tried 70 but I think sticks better with 75)
- 160mm/s travel speed (originally had on 130 but fixes a bit of the stringing issue)

These are the results:
IMG_0950.jpg
The one on the left was the only print to finish so far, it was printed with 10% infill but all other settings were the same. The red print is an ABS print, as you can see it is very good. All the others are the non completed prints.
Can someone help me find a solution to my issue. Thankyou!


UPDATE:
After much testing and research, I finally got a print to work. I printed a 20x20x20mm calibration cube, haven't tried anything else yet but will be sure to update.

These are the settings that fixed the issue:
Nozzle temperature: 250 Celsius
Bed temperature: 80 Celsius

I also decided to switch my slicer from xyzware pro to simplify 3d so am able to make more adjustments as I still have a lot more progress to go.

[radiovan7]

I have had similar frustration attempting to print Amazon Basics black PETG with my built-from-parts i3 clone. I'm using a Bondtech EMG direct drive extruder with an 0.4mm all-metal hotend. I custom built the printer to work with flexible filaments like TPU.

It prints beautifully with ABS, PLA and TPU but I have only succeeded in printing small 10mm calibration cubes with PETG. Everytime I try to print a large item it prints the skirt and brim and jams as soon as it starts printing the first layer infill. I normally use the Prusa version of Slic3r for slicing.

I have tried all kinds of setting experiments:
Cooling fan on or off for the first 3 layers or always off
Hotend temps of 240 to 250C
Bed temps of 80 to 110C
Slowing speeds down from 50 to 15mm/s
Various PETG profiles
Changing the nozzle height above the bed

The PETG filament is more flexible than PLA or ABS but stiffer than TPU. It appears to start out extruding fine and then it comes out too slow for the Slic3r calculations and the extruder coils the filament where it leaves the extruder.

I have no problem with adhesion to my flexible metal bed surface with hairspray. I use a 10mm brim on both PETG and ABS to stop warping.

I have a cellphone holder that I made for my car in PLA. It couldn't take the summer heat so I wanted to print it with PETG but for now I will have to print it with ABS.

[M J]

The indentations on the filament indicate the feeder gear is binding due to the filament not melting in the extruder as quickly as it is being fed. You need to increase temps for PETG, I've found the melting temps range from 200-230C+.

[djprinter]

I find that I have to print PETG at 260+ to get reliable results.