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  1. #21
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    So I have been having this printer make parts for my Diamond Hotend build and I am happy with it so far. And the Diamond Hotend is really starting to look like a functional extruder..

  2. #22
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    So S3D seems to make my printers run a little faster without me playing with any speed settings. Which is nice. But now I can see my extruder shaking all about as it jerks back and forth. I have all the smooth rods braced so well on this machine but this is going to stop me from printing any faster. I actually have the right solution already in my hands and ready to go in the form of the all metal titan aero mount I just removed from my 3 color mixing printer. It weighs a whole lot but man is it solid. So as soon as it is done printing this part for itself I get to tear this machine down one more time..

  3. #23
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    So changing the carriage to the all metal part turned out to be a project. But it is done and back together. And aside from a more rigid X and E axes I also added a filament runout sensor. This was easy because this machine is using a MKS TFT32 and it has a provision on the back for this sensor. No firmware changes needed. When this pin on the tft gets grounded it sends a pause command to the mainboard and beeps at you. Also i finally got the part cooling fan working. When i first installed the SKR 1.4 Turbo on this printer i accidentally had the part cooling fan connected with the polarity reversed. After that the 5015s fan was dead and the cnc fan pin on the mainboard always gets power. So I re assigned heater 1 to be the fan pin. And now everything on this machine works GREAT! And all that is left here is for me to explore octoprint so i can get some of them awesome octolapse videos up and going.

  4. #24
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    I did it CA. I finally printed out a functional Iris Box. And it works buttery smooth, too. But I cheated. I printed it at 150% scale..

    And now that i am up and running with S3D i can easier follow these awesome quality and speed tutorials from the Teaching Tech youtube channel. Specifically these videos for tuning acceleration and junction deviation(jerk) here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mnvj6xCzikM . And for properly calibrating linear advance here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3yK0lJ8TWM&t
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 07-19-2020 at 05:14 PM.

  5. #25
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well done !
    iris boxes are great for keeping screws in as you never lose the lid :-)

    What they mainly illustrate is that you have your retractions nailed !
    which is about 80% of doing intricate or multiple part prints :-)

    Now it's all about ramping the speed up :-)

    I think I print the boxes at about 80% size, just for speed as much as anything else.
    a 4 hour print - is a long one for me :-)

  6. #26
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    And i got it to print and work in standard size. So according to the process i followed i am printing at 150mm/s but i have the acceleration turned down But this box took 1.5hrs to print. The 150% green box took 5.5hrs to print but since the new calibration settings when i slice this box at 150% it says 3.5hrs. My printer moves faster but not blistering or mind boggling fast. I regret printing this out in black. It is hard to take a good picture of..

  7. #27
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    I made a short youtube video of this printer printing out a part for the 3 color mixing printer. Only a few minutes at the start of the print and just to show how fast this machine is now moving since i have tuned it for speed. It's not setting any records but it is definitely printing faster than it was. The method i followed was to first find out how fast my extruder can feed filament reliably and then set my speed to that and tune the acceleration and junction deviation or jerk settings to bring about the best quality. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXpZJzbA5TU
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 08-02-2020 at 05:07 PM.

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