Makerfarm Prusa 10" i3v Available!

[printbus]

+1 on the flexible shaft couplers, but OME will be pointing out that there are better ones out there that have separate set screws that grab the shafts, or four screws total. Those couplers will hold the threaded rod better - otherwise you'll need to shim the threaded rod with something like foil or metal tape since the threaded rod is a bit less than 5mm diameter.

Also, take a look at the thread titled "Y bed rubbing solutions". One of the not-so-great aspects of the i3v is that the Y-belt rides directly on bearings at the front idler, with nothing to prevent the belt from catching on the wood sides of the idler bracket. I assume the 10-inch i3v is of the same design, and the additional Y-bed travel makes this more of a concern on the 10-inch. The rubbing solutions thread may have some ideas for you to consider in your build.

EDIT: And if that Y-idler is still just mounted to a flat plate, I'd seriously consider adding some sort of reinforcement to minimize the plate flexing, since any flex will change the tension in the Y-belt. The wider bed will be more prone to this flex than on the 8-inch. This reinforcement could be a metal bracket or could be something simple like a glued-on wood scrap left from the sheets the laser cut parts come in.

[RaySuave]

Appreciate the tips, I ordered the z flexible shaft couplings with the four set screws. The kit is scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday...

[usarmyaircav]

Hi all! New member to this forum, however I am on the reprap forum also. I ordered the 10" I3V last night. So stoked!!!! I am going to order an E3dv6 tonight. Need to order a power supply. I have been looking at the LED ones, but am concerned about the noise. This is going to be in an inside room, so will need to dampen as much noise as possible. Any recomendations?

Todd

[usarmyaircav]

Appreciate the tips, I ordered the z flexible shaft couplings with the four set screws. The kit is scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday...

Just ordered my kit last night. I need 2 of the couplers correct?

[MiniMadRyan]

I've left the stock flexible tubing for my z-couplers for the time being. I used them on my printrbot and never had much issue, so didn't feel a huge need to change it up here.

Some notes on my assembly thus far (just have to finish the wiring)

- It is indeed a larger version of the 8, the y axis rails actually stick out a bit past the end carriage, I made a modification there, and added a printed piece that allows me to use a longish screw to contact the z end-stop, that makes it easier to adjust the z height instead of messing around with the switch itself.
- The relay is included, and the video's and guide make it very easy to understand how to wire it all up, nothing hard to do.
- I used the printed belt guides mentioned earlier, they really work well and seem to have no issues.
- Your heat bed may have some significant warp to it, and colin confirmed none of them are entirely flat, but it will fit and work fine when its attached to a good piece of glass.
- I had to do some light sanding and filing on the printed extruder to get things to match up properly, most prominently was the area where the bearing for the hobbled bolt is, needed to sand this to get the hobbled bolt to line up with the extruder correctly
- Lastly, I noticed on some pieces, namely on the hot end carriage, that the pieces were not laser cut perfectly square. This meant some of the edges had a bit of a chamfer to them. it still assembled fine as long as I was careful, and should not pose an issue, but it was something I hadn't noticed in other kits.

Overall, I am very very pleased with this kit. For the price, you can't beat the print size and feature. The unit really does feel very solid, and coming from printrbots, it feels very very rigid. The kit does not have everything, namely the PSU, glass (or binder clips for holding the glass) Depending on the PSU, you may need to source some wire to connect it from the PSU to the RAMPS, but otherwise, I am very very pleased with it. There's plenty of extras included and Colin's videos and documentation really are top notch! Can't wait to get it fired up and running!


Ryan

[MiniMadRyan]

Here's the printed piece I'm using for my z end-stop. I originally intended for it to sit on top of the rail (hence the keyway) but forgot about it interfering with the wheels. If anyone wants the STL, let me know!

10580199_10152646907002177_2750290722954750823_n.jpg

[gmay3]

Hi usarmyaircav and welcome to the forum! I think you're really going to like your i3v!

Yes you will need 2 couplers.

I'm not sure what you mean about an LCD power supply, or if you are referring to electrical noise or audible noise.

As far as power supplies go, using the ATX power supply Colin from Makerfarm is working well for me so far. If I had to do it again, I might choose a power supply that has screw terminals for the power connections, because I think this would be easier than having to cut wires, solder, and properly insulate connections you'd need to make from the ATX power supply. I don't have a specific model in mind but you'll find that other repraps use general purpose, thin silver metallic power supplies. They might be worth a look. Feel free to run the specs by Colin if you want to double check they will be ok for the 10" i3v.

And for noise isolation, please see clough42's fantastic mods in this thread: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...our-MODS/page2

I've recently printed and assembled clough42's Sorbothane Vibration Isolation Feet as well as the LCD Ramps Spacer with great sound reducing results!

[usarmyaircav]

Hi usarmyaircav and welcome to the forum! I think you're really going to like your i3v!

Yes you will need 2 couplers.

I'm not sure what you mean about an LCD power supply, or if you are referring to electrical noise or audible noise.

As far as power supplies go, using the ATX power supply Colin from Makerfarm is working well for me so far. If I had to do it again, I might choose a power supply that has screw terminals for the power connections, because I think this would be easier than having to cut wires, solder, and properly insulate connections you'd need to make from the ATX power supply. I don't have a specific model in mind but you'll find that other repraps use general purpose, thin silver metallic power supplies. They might be worth a look. Feel free to run the specs by Colin if you want to double check they will be ok for the 10" i3v.

And for noise isolation, please see clough42's fantastic mods in this thread: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...our-MODS/page2

I've recently printed and assembled clough42's Sorbothane Vibration Isolation Feet as well as the LCD Ramps Spacer with great sound reducing results!

I will look at that mod. I meant LED power supply which I think I will get.

My current question/problem is that I ordered it without a hotend as I am ordering an E3dv6, now I realize the E3d doesn't come with the metal plate that would hold the hot end. Colin says that theirs is a 4.5mm thick, but the E3d info at http://files.e3d-online.com/v6/Drawings/V6-175-SINK.pdf looks like the mount gap is 6mm. Thoughts?

Edit - anyone tell me if this will work? - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:315045

[usarmyaircav]

Per the maker of that thingi, it should work as long as the cariage hasn't changed since his I3 , and Colin says that it hasn't so I guess I will try to find someone to print one of these and give it a shot. Otherwise I will be looking for a shop to cut me one. Mine is supposed to ship on 8/27!

[Tachout]

Is this the one you are looking for?

http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/h...ing-plate.html