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  1. #1
    Technician
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    Apr 2014
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    Makerfarm Prusa 10" i3v Available!

    Hey Everyone,

    Colin has posted the product page for his new 10" Prusa i3v...

    http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/w...extrusion.html

    All specs seems to be the same, except for the build envelope is now 250mm x 250mm x 250mm. The larger heated bed requires a relay, which is included, but not sure if an additional ATX power supply is needed JUST for the higher bed amperage.

    Colin says there's no details yet on upgrades, but they are in the works.

    EDIT - The new bed DOESN'T require a relay. My bad.
    Last edited by 1stage; 07-03-2014 at 01:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Technician
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    50
    Also note that in the Makerfarm Products > Electronics section, in addition to the new 10" x 10" heated bed, there's also a 12" x 12" heated bed, making a Prusa 12" i3v a possibility as well.


    Personally, I have a rather immediate need for a larger build envelope, so I will likely upgrade my current i3v to an 8" x 12" heat bed in the next two weeks. It should not require modification of the Prusa 8" frame, but will require the following:
    - Longer V-track rails on the Y/Bed, available here (http://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-20-x-20mm/)
    - New heated bed, available here (http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/p...-heat-bed.html)
    - Add-on integrated thermistor
    - Add-on bed relay
    - Longer GT2 Y-belt, about 3' or 100 cm, available here (http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/h...-gt2-belt.html) or here (http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt2-2mm-timing-belt/)
    - New laser cut bed
    - Reuse existing trolley & idler parts
    - New glass
    - New cork under-lay
    - Extension wires, available here (http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/m...cable-137.html) and here (http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/m...end-cable.html), plus use spare end-stop extension from original Makerfarm kit.
    - Firmware/Config file updates to Mendel
    - Config file updates to Slic3r

    ...and yes, I'll take the opportunity to properly align the bed and Y idlers so that the Y belt rubbing is fixed.

  3. #3
    Student
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dearborn, MI
    Posts
    23
    This model may become my first 3D Printer...

    Are there any disadvantages for a bigger bed size other than larger footprint and higher power consumption?

  4. #4
    Technician
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    Apr 2014
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    Not particularly, and the power consumption difference between the 8" and 10" is pretty negligible, to be honest. The worst case is that there's more room to screw up and waste plastic!

    Colin hasn't posted a build guide specifically for the 10" version (he links to the 8" guide, which is essentially the same, just smaller frame), so it's likely the same wiring-wise as well. The kit does NOT include a bed relay, so that suggest power for bed wiring is the same (needs an ATX power supply with TWO 2x2 square 12v leads outputting at least 11A each).
    Last edited by 1stage; 07-03-2014 at 10:29 AM.

  5. #5
    Student
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    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dearborn, MI
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    Thanks for the reply...

    I am also looking into what I need (extra cost and materials) to be able to build this type of printer using the separately sold 12" X 12" bed because I plan on using this to primarily print frame parts for RC vehicles/crafts where print length capability is important, but height is not that important.

  6. #6
    Technician
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    50
    Well, the 10" frame probably won't accommodate the 12x12 bed, just as the 8" frame which I have won't accommodate the 10x10 bed... not enough width between the two Z axis pillars.

    You might consider what I'm going to do, mentioned above: swap out JUST the Y axis pieces to accommodate the 8x12 bed. No wooden frame modifications are required. I don't usually need anything wider than 8" on at least a single axis, so extending the Y only out by about 4" is perfect for my needs.

    If you're considering building a LARGER one, like a 12x12 (or bigger), perhaps go for the 8" now to get used to the process, then upgrade it yourself with parts from Open Build Parts Store (http://openbuildspartstore.com/). Most of the components will be the same (steppers, electronics, etc.) but you can bust out of the 8" confines by adding your own frames out of the V track aluminum.

    There's also other bed-size options, like this 24x24 beast (http://store.quintessentialuniversal...id_product=113), but it will require a DC-to-AC110V relay rather than the usual DC-DC relays that most use.

  7. #7
    Technician
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    50
    Here's a detailed parts list (with links and costs) for the Makerfarm Prusa 8" to 8x12 upgrade I'm planning:

    From Makerfarm.com:


    From Openbuildpartstore.com:
    • Extruded Aluminum replacement Y rails, V-Slot 20 x 20mm, 1000mm - US$10.00
      (http://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-20-x-20mm/)
      • SUBTOTAL - US$10.00
      • TAX - $0 (Unless your in whatever state they're in)
      • SHIPPING ~US$11.00
      • OPEN BUILD PARTS STORE GRAND TOTAL ~US$21.00


    From Amazon.com:
    • 12v 30A DC Power Supply - US$25.66
      (http://amzn.com/B00ENFBXQS)
    • 12"x12" Cork Tiles (4) for Heat Bed Underlay Replacement - US$12.99
      (http://amzn.com/B002M78G0K)
      • SUBTOTAL - US$38.65
      • TAX - US$3.58
      • SHIPPING ~US$0 (Both are Amazon Prime eligible)
      • AMAZON GRAND TOTAL ~US$42.23


    Currently un-sourced parts:
    • New laser-cut Y bed trolley platform ~US$15.00
      • 1/4" hardwood plywood, 4' x 8' sheet - US$30 / 24 @ 12" x 16" raw panels = US$1.25
      • Laser cutting ~ US$13.00

    • New 8" x 12" piece of 1/8" tempered glass, ground edges ~ US$18.00
      • SUBTOTAL - US$33.00
      • TAX - US$3.05
      • SHIPPING - US$0 (will likely source locally)
      • UNSOURCED GRAND TOTAL ~US$36.00


    PROJECT COST ESTIMATE, ~US$184.00

  8. #8
    Super Moderator DrLuigi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    502
    Nice for only 184 dollars,

    Still find my Makerfarm prusa i3 great, But i think i wouldnt go with wood again tho,

    It creates so much vibirations and noise, it isnt that fast either.
    Its a great printer for a starter and the price don't get me wrong, but i might break it off one day and use something like the Vrails and create something like a Ultimaker box printer/mendelmax etc.
    Something a bit more stabile,

    Or a Delta, but i wouldnt dare to opensource DIY that one, i think i would screw up that one haha :P

  9. #9
    Student
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dearborn, MI
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stage View Post
    Well, the 10" frame probably won't accommodate the 12x12 bed, just as the 8" frame which I have won't accommodate the 10x10 bed... not enough width between the two Z axis pillars.

    You might consider what I'm going to do, mentioned above: swap out JUST the Y axis pieces to accommodate the 8x12 bed. No wooden frame modifications are required. I don't usually need anything wider than 8" on at least a single axis, so extending the Y only out by about 4" is perfect for my needs.

    If you're considering building a LARGER one, like a 12x12 (or bigger), perhaps go for the 8" now to get used to the process, then upgrade it yourself with parts from Open Build Parts Store (http://openbuildspartstore.com/). Most of the components will be the same (steppers, electronics, etc.) but you can bust out of the 8" confines by adding your own frames out of the V track aluminum.

    There's also other bed-size options, like this 24x24 beast (http://store.quintessentialuniversal...id_product=113), but it will require a DC-to-AC110V relay rather than the usual DC-DC relays that most use.
    Thanks for all the info the links. I went ahead and bought the MakerFarm Prusa 10" i3v Kit. After looking at various available printers/prices for several days to find the best deal in regards to: build envelope, cost, and upgrade ability, this looks like the best option for me at the moment. I would rather have the 12X12 or 12X8 bed but since this is my first printer and there are no kits with these parameters, I'm not trying to set myself up for extra frustration and wasting money right from the start. I plan on increasing the bed size once I get the stock kit up and running for a while, I may not even need to increase the bed size since as of now, everything I plan on printing (RC air craft frame pieces) will fit this bed size with a little extra room to spare. Another reason I bought this kit was because MakerFarm customer service was very prompt in replying to several of my emails....this is certainly a sign of good future customer service when urgently needed.
    Last edited by RaySuave; 07-08-2014 at 02:24 PM.

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    Mar 2014
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    USA
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    Add gmay3 on Thingiverse
    Woo hoo! Congrats on your purchase RaySuave! You're gonna have a blast putting the kit together and I definitely think you made a great choice based on other kits/printers out there.

    I recently build a Makerfarm Prusa i3v 8" and one thing I would definitely recommend is to go ahead and get the flexible metal 5mm to 5mm z threaded rod couplers right off the bat because getting the rods into the plastic clear tubing killed my hands and when all was said and done, I had bent the rods trying to get them in there. I'm probably going to end up buying a new set of rods sometime in the future and I would hate to see you have to do the same.

    Maker farm sells em here:

    http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/5...z-coupler.html

    Amazon sells em (this is the exact one I used) here:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Cheers,
    gmay3

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