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  1. #11
    Technician
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    I just received the Flashforge glass bed that I intend to use with my PowerSpec printer. I probably will look for tempered glass locally in the future to save some money, but I needed some kapton tape anyway...

    The PowerSpec has a bit of a different bed carriage than the Flashforge, as far as I can tell. It has a flat metal plate on a frame underneath, that cannot be seen from the outside. As such, the little shim that people have been using to reset the Z-axis won't work with the PowerSpec. I'm working on a larger shim that will use the side-stabilizers on the Z-axis as end-points and then just run across the back of the metal plate to trigger the limit switch. I"m also going to play with the thickness, as the Z-axis springs/screws are at their tightest just to level the bed, and I'd like to have a bit more leeway.

    The biggest thing I'm worried about is how to attach the glass to the existing bed structure. I'm thinking of using medium-sized binder clips, but the glass is 7mm thick and the aluminum plate is 6+mm, and the heater comes right out to the edge of the aluminum plate. I am worried about the pressure one of the mid-sized clips will exert on the structure. I think crushing the heater would not be a good thing.

    Has anyone done the binder clip attachment for their glass bed on a Creator X? How did it work? Are there any other alternatives? (I'd like the glass to be removable for kapton replacement, cleaning, and severely stuck work product, so I don't want to nail it in place. )
    Last edited by jdg56; 07-12-2014 at 09:03 AM.

  2. #12
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:390209 This is a part I designed to lower the zaxis switch. It is 5.5mm lower which is good for 1/4" glass (6.35mm), and 3/16" glass (4.7mm). Actually on mine I was able to use a longer bolt on on the back of the z axis threaded insert and raise it up with a spacer about 5.5mm thick. The switch lever hits this bolt so raising it works also.

    You really don't need Kapton on glass. If you use PLA, your best bet is to line the glass with Blue painters tape. ABS on glass is best with melted ABS in Acetone making a slurry.

    Binder clips work fine but the ones I have barely fit on the 1/4" glass. They wont crush the heater plate.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdg56 View Post
    I just received the Flashforge glass bed that I intend to use with my PowerSpec printer. I probably will look for tempered glass locally in the future to save some money, but I needed some kapton tape anyway...

    The PowerSpec has a bit of a different bed carriage than the Flashforge, as far as I can tell. It has a flat metal plate on a frame underneath, that cannot be seen from the outside. As such, the little shim that people have been using to reset the Z-axis won't work with the PowerSpec. I'm working on a larger shim that will use the side-stabilizers on the Z-axis as end-points and then just run across the back of the metal plate to trigger the limit switch. I"m also going to play with the thickness, as the Z-axis springs/screws are at their tightest just to level the bed, and I'd like to have a bit more leeway.

    The biggest thing I'm worried about is how to attach the glass to the existing bed structure. I'm thinking of using medium-sized binder clips, but the glass is 7mm thick and the aluminum plate is 6+mm, and the heater comes right out to the edge of the aluminum plate. I am worried about the pressure one of the mid-sized clips will exert on the structure. I think crushing the heater would not be a good thing.

    Has anyone done the binder clip attachment for their glass bed on a Creator X? How did it work? Are there any other alternatives? (I'd like the glass to be removable for kapton replacement, cleaning, and severely stuck work product, so I don't want to nail it in place. )

  3. #13
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    the picture frame glass from pound/buck stores is 2mm thick and plenty strong enough. easiest way is to buy a4 picture frames and cut the glass down to size.
    As far as the z switch thing goes. An extra 2mm doesn't effect the limit switch as it's calibrated slightly below it anyway. Or I'm thinking of the wrong thing.
    And little corner brackets should work so the glass just sits in the bracket for easy removal. The problem with clips is that the print head clips them if you print something big.

  4. #14
    I use cheap ikea 6inch sqaure mirrors with bulldog clips to secure to the bed. Prints are perfect and they stick everytime. You can get a pack of 6 mirrors for about $8. Still on my first mirror after 3 months.

  5. #15
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3dfilemarket View Post
    I use cheap ikea 6inch sqaure mirrors with bulldog clips to secure to the bed. Prints are perfect and they stick everytime. You can get a pack of 6 mirrors for about $8. Still on my first mirror after 3 months.
    On what machine?

  6. #16
    hi!
    iam using 3.2mm glass now. did you guys increase temperature, coz the glass will eat some of the heat? by how much?
    my temp is already 120. using abs. some parts of object still lift. specially corners.
    already tried raft with 2 layers 6mm, it still lift. latest print 2 corner lift almost 4.5-5mm. 2 corner 0.5-1mm

    will try the acetone slurry next, but any suggestions will be appreciated.

    print-lift01.jpg
    Last edited by palawanisland; 07-30-2014 at 08:39 AM.

  7. #17
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by palawanisland View Post
    hi!
    iam using 3.2mm glass now. did you guys increase temperature, coz the glass will eat some of the heat? by how much?
    my temp is already 120. using abs. some parts of object still lift. specially corners.
    already tried raft with 2 layers 6mm, it still lift. latest print 2 corner lift almost 4.5-5mm. 2 corner 0.5-1mm

    will try the acetone slurry next, but any suggestions will be appreciated.

    print-lift01.jpg
    Sometimes less is better, how low have you gone on the heatbed trying to print ABS? it can curl also and lift if it is too hot, this generally happens after a several layers, where if it is too cold, you generally dont get past a layer or 2.

  8. #18
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    the picture frame glass from pound/buck stores is 2mm thick.
    actually I just measured it with the calipers. It's only 1.25 mm. Better heat transfer from the bed. And it's still pretty strong.
    Just modelled a holder that will hold 7 sheets - assuming it prints !
    But as it's a solid base I can use raft and that usually works okay

    Now I just need to come up with a better way to attach the glass than bulldog clips as the heads always seem to hit the clips - no matter where I put them.

    Also bought some vinyl based hairspray and a couple more sheets of glass.

    I will try everything !
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 07-30-2014 at 10:47 AM.

  9. #19
    Student
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    Jul 2014
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    EU
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    I did mod my flashforge to glass once, used silicone as binder, but the heat transfer was terrible.

    I think I prefer the kapton+alu, though I did work with glass on a reprap and it was pretty cool.

  10. #20
    Technician
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    83
    Hi all,

    Earlier in this discussion, we were talking about shims to compensate for glass thickness as regards the z-axis limit switch.

    I tinkered around a little bit in openscad, since I wanted to learn a bit about it anyway, and developed an interchangeable, parameterized shim that has been working pretty well for me.

    I have both 1/8" and 1/4" glass beds, so being able to swap out the shim is a useful feature for me.

    I just posted the shim build files on thingiverse:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440022

    If anyone finds this a useful tool, that will make me happy.

    Cheers,

    John

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