Glass build platform is the way to go!

[roykirk]

I've finally had to make the first change to my FF. The stock aluminum build platform was horribly warped (quite disappointed about that after only a few months ownership) and I was starting to have trouble getting things to print correctly. I decided to buy the glass build platform that FF sells on their U.S. website. I couldn't be happier. Dead level from corner to corner and things are printing beautifully again. See photo below. The one thing to note is that I saw a photo somewhere else of someone using this glass plate clamped directly on top of the stock aluminum build plate. I have no idea how they managed that because I tried it and it was impossible because the platform became so thick that I couldn't screw down the leveling nuts far enough to clear the nozzle. Only after I removed the metal plate could I get the platform to clear the nozzle. While I've heard it can be done, I'm not printing directly on the glass, instead continuing to use blue painters tape. My main reason being that sometimes my models really stick hard to the platform and I have to use a putty knife to "pop" them off. I didn't want to scratch the bejeesus out of the glass plate right off the bat. Perhaps I'll give it a try without tape at some point.


photo 1.jpg

[34Ford]

I am new at this but I saw where if you put the glass on top of the original plate you will need to print or make a spacer so that the z stop switch is hit sooner.

[Peet@FFUSA]

Hi Roy,

Dennis is correct. You'd need to print a z-axis offset (spacer) that you place on the z-axis bar behind the build platform.

Don't remove the stock aluminum plate when you want to use the glass plate. Instead, place the glass plate on top of the aluminum plate and simply secure it by using either paper clips (like in the photo you attached) or using tape on all four corners.

What the Z-axis spacer would do is hit the Z-axis sensors, which will stop the plate from rising further. This would provide enough clearance so the glass plate will not hit the nozzle.

Hope this helps!

Peter

[Roxy]

While I've heard it can be done, I'm not printing directly on the glass, instead continuing to use blue painters tape. My main reason being that sometimes my models really stick hard to the platform and I have to use a putty knife to "pop" them off. I didn't want to scratch the bejeesus out of the glass plate right off the bat. Perhaps I'll give it a try without tape at some point.

I think you are worrying too much about the glass. It doesn't scratch that easily and it is very cheap to replace (at least if you use thin picture frame glass). What I do is wedge a single edged razor blade under a corner of the print. And then I wedge a small flat bladed screw driver under the razor blade as close as possible to the print. Usually, with a little bit of a twist to the screw driver, it pops off the glass.

[crowbar]

Glass is nice. I buy cheap panels at home depot for under $2. I use hair spray on the glass before printing. Sometimes, I have to use a clamp or pliers to remove the object though.

[Roxy]

Glass is nice. I buy cheap panels at home depot for under $2. I use hair spray on the glass before printing. Sometimes, I have to use a clamp or pliers to remove the object though.

If you have detachable glass... You might want to try putting your plate in the freezer if the print is sticking too well! I've done that a few times when I couldn't get a print free.

[roykirk]

Thanks for the advice. I hadn't heard about the spacer and that sounds like it might work better. I might give printing directly on the glass a try. I love blue tape in that when I use it with PLA on a slightly heated bed, my prints stick like glue. The bad part about that is that I usually end up having to completely replace blue tape with every single print because it rips up with the model. If I can get my PLA prints to stick just as well to the glass without being just as difficult to get off with blue tape, it would definitely be the way to go for me.

[crowbar]

My freezers are already filled to the brim with Costco stuff. I guess one might be able to lay the glass on some ice packs to remove?

[Geoff]

Thanks for the advice. I hadn't heard about the spacer and that sounds like it might work better. I might give printing directly on the glass a try. I love blue tape in that when I use it with PLA on a slightly heated bed, my prints stick like glue. The bad part about that is that I usually end up having to completely replace blue tape with every single print because it rips up with the model. If I can get my PLA prints to stick just as well to the glass without being just as difficult to get off with blue tape, it would definitely be the way to go for me.

This is why I stick with kapton, I only replace it every few months. I will have to try the glass I think, I have some new flashy flexible stuff coming I want to try and apparently glass works much better for it.

[lycan]

Gday,

I have been using the sheeting that came with my T-Shirt printing press with great success, it is very strong and can withstand temperatures above 200 Celcius. merely cut the sheet to size and tape the edges down.

Just a thought for you all