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  1. #1

    diy 3d printer design verification

    Hello all. I am new to 3d printing (only used one maybe a dozen times) and do not own one, and would like to build my own. However, I have little knowledge on how they are designed. so using my limited knowledge designed one in PTC creo. (Design files below, stl and creo) and I am wondering if my design is a good one. i am plenty capable of building one, i just want to make sure i got the design "correct".

    pic 1.jpg

    The frame of my design consists of aluminum extrusion from the company 80/20, specifically from their 10 series extrusions. (I.e. 1”x1”). all the gray "plates" are 1/8" alluminum or steal. i will assemble the frame without brackets, only using bolts. (not pictured)
    ?
    pic 2.jpgpic 3.jpgpic 4.jpg

    i want my 3d printer to be floor standing, so this frame design measures in at roughly 29 x 27 x 54inches, not including the planned leveling feet, which will add an extra 5-6inches in height. the print area measures in at 500mm x 500mm x 1000mm (the largest heated bed I could find), but of the 1000mm height only about 900mm is actually usable. the z-axis rails are 12mm supported rails, and driven by a nema 23 stepper motor, which for now is just floating. the z-axis rod is an 8mm acme rod measuring in at 1000mm, and supported by two bearing blocks. Should I invest in a ballscrew instead?

    The frame of my design consists of aluminum extrusion from the company 80/20, specifically from their 10 series extrusions. (I.e. 1”x1”). all the gray "plates" are 1/8" alluminum or steel. i will assemble the frame without (limited) brackets (might print some when its done), only using bolts. (not pictured). for the frame and mechanism i dont want to use any 3d printed parts

    this design uses a total of 9 (yes 9) stepper motors. 4 for the boden, 4 for the x/y, and 1 for the z.

    pic 5.jpg

    For the extruder I plan on using the kraken quad filament water-cooled extruder. Pictured are the four 1kg spools (green), and the gray guide plates to guide the filament to the four boden steppers.

    I have two main questions. (1) What controller should I use? I’ve looked at the skr pro and the duet, but need something capable of controlling 9 steppers. (2) Being new to 3d printer design, does my design look correct? Are there any problems you see, or things I could improve whilst still in the design phase? any knowledge you've gathered from your own attempt?

    before i put more detail i want to make sure the "bones" of the design are correct.

    If anyone needs further clarification on my design or more pictures, feel free to ask!

    Here is a link to my design files (both stl and creo assembly): it wont let me post a link sorry

  2. #2
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    Prusa Research MMU2S for 5 color printing -OR- Diamond Hotend for 3 color mixing. These are the multi material setups we should seriously consider. the 3 nozzles you aren't using on that kracken will drip and destroy every print. ONE nozzle only. The Diamond hotend throws up a lot of heat as it is such a large heated tip. It needs a robust cooling fan to prevent heat creep. I setup a 3 color mixing printer once. But today the software has caught up: https://www.reprap.org/wiki/Repetier_Color_Mixing I am currently balls deep in setting up a MMU2S with a 32 bit controller(SKR 1.3) and as soon as I am done with that i am going to convert my 3 color mixing printer back to its original form so i will have one 5 color printer and one 3 color mixing printer. And Only One extruder tip on each!
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 09-16-2019 at 10:21 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by super7800 View Post
    I have two main questions. (1) What controller should I use? I’ve looked at the skr pro and the duet, but need something capable of controlling 9 steppers. (2) Being new to 3d printer design, does my design look correct? Are there any problems you see, or things I could improve whilst still in the design phase? any knowledge you've gathered from your own attempt?
    SKR 1.3 is a great board. 32 bit controller that will run marlin 2.0. And it is cheap, too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKR-Mini-V1...AAAOSwcrVdea2l I am installing one in a printer I am setting up with a whole mess of steppers. I am using stepper driver expansion boards and this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIChqkEAuto&t= and we can use as many steppers as we like with whatever board we like. I personally like the 1.3 board and also I have found the absolute latest version of the tft touchscreen. from Bigtreetech the tft35 v3.0. I found this bad boy on amazon. It is both a color touch screen AND a lcd12864. or it has the knob anyways: https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-D.../dp/B07W1PB11F You should also look for the TMC2208 v2.0 stepper drivers and run your build with a 24v power supply. You will be so much happier with 24v over a 12v system. Especially if you have a large heatbed or want to print with higher temp materials.
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 09-16-2019 at 10:23 PM.

  4. #4
    thanks for the advice!

    looking at prints that the kraken had done, i had noticed drips but had assumed that was due to it being setup incorrectly. thanks. however, i cannot do what you suggested either, as it has to "clean" the nozzle when changing colors, and sometimes doing this can cause the same kinda problems with the kraken (color mixes/drips), or so the reasearch i did told me, correct me if i'm wrong and with your own experiences.

    knowing that neither solution was "good enough" for me, i decided to find the elusive third option: the tool changing head assembly. I've only seen this done once, so if anyone else has examples please feel free to share.

    pic 1.jpgpic 2.jpgpic 3.jpg

    the design i came up with is pictured above. on the left is the complete assembly, and on the right is where the extruders mount (backside pictured first, then the front where the extruder mounts). for some scale the mount is 2" wide, the linear rails and leadscrew 400mm long/ 8mm dia, and the red toolholder is 10" in diameter.

    this design has the capability of holding 8!! independent heads, and the above pictured uses 8x sg90 servomotors, 1x nema 23 (center of wheel), and 2x nema 17 steppers.

    the theory is that on the side opposite of the red wheel is the head, so the selector selects the head, clamps on, rotates 180", and then goes up to the head and mounts it. hope thats clear, its kinda hard to describe.

    pic 4.jpgpic 5.jpg


    the red toolholder rotates in a bearing within bearing design.

    look up mpcnc automatic tool changer on youtube to see a similar design. id post a link but it still wont let me

    for the 8 extruders, im thinking about going with the NF W-01 watercooled extruder. its watercooled and looks sleak, but ive found no information online about that model. is it a good one? and suggestions for different ones?

    with this design (correct me if im totally wrong), there is no way that ill be able to control this with a "cheep" controller like the skr, and will need to invest in the duet with the duex expansion, but that price! i kinda want to buy the legit mainboard, but does anyone know of a good clone of the duex 5 (or even the mainboard)? spending that much on an expansion board is not really what i want to do.

    my same question about design still stands though: Being new to 3d printer design, does my design look correct? Are there any problems you see, or things I could improve whilst still in the design phase? any knowledge you've gathered from your own attempt?

    before i put more detail i want to make sure the "bones" of the design are correct. i will design the rest of the model for this toolchanger, and mount it to the frame once ive heard peolpes opinion on it, so if there is a problem or better solution out there, i wont have put to terribly much time into this design.

    If anyone needs further clarification on my design or more pictures, feel free to ask!

    this tool changer will come later after i built the physical machine already, but a want to make sure the frame can accommodate it first.

    Here is a link to my design files (both stl and creo assembly): it wont let me post a link sorry message me for it?


    THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!




  5. #5
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    So there is a wipe tower that is a block that gets printed in the rear of your print bed for the printer to clear the nozzle and then there is wipe to infill where it saves the filament and makes sure that the color change happens during infill. The multi tips will require a servo and specifically bent tin to serve as a cap for each individual nozzle you aren't using. That is the only way to stop the drip completely. Here is an awesome video on the setup of a Prusa MMU2S on a generic 3d printer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7TexBAR80

  6. #6
    i decided to go with the duet 2 ethernet and duex 5 for control, however i will buy cloned to save some money (its over half off buying cloned). has anyone had problems using cloned?

    the board with expansion supports 7 print heads, but nothing more. so in order to add my planned tool changer i will probably need to develop my own solution? has anyone seen a design like mine implemented before on a 3d printer?

    here is my parts list. i tried to attach it in a zip, but it didnt wanna let me

    Capture.jpg

    all i have left to do selection-wise is find a good auto-leveling sensor, and a good psu. since this is running at 24v, would something like a 24v at 33amps be big enough? remember it has to drive a 500x500 bed, 11 nema 17, and 1 nema 23, and i plan to have 7 print heads (obviously only about 2 would be active at the same time). i also want to have the ability to add the tool changer, thus increasing power demands.

    i have left out the x-axis ballscrew and nema 23 motor, as i have those, and all parts relating to the toolchanger. i also left out the 6 additional heads from the partslist, as im going to start off with one and go from there.

    for the hotends i want to use the nf w-01 . however little information exists online about them. any suggestions?

    thanks

  7. #7
    if anyone wants to follow the project further, here is a reddit post i made where people have been helping me out: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/..._verification/

    here are some updated pics for those interested:
    pic 1.jpgpic 4.jpgpic 2.jpg

    the volume is 500x500x~1000mm

    the z-axis motors and dual ballscrews are not pictured. they are a set of nema 23

    the x/y is now a corexy design using 15mm gates belts, two 600mmx12mm supported rails, and a 700mmx12mm single linear rail. its driven by two nema 17 steppers.

    here is a picture of my roughph wiring diagram: https://postimg.cc/WhWTBj7h

    i plan on using 7 (yes 7) watercooled extruders, and using air instead of fans to blow air onto the part, since this will be completelly enclosed. all wiring excluding water will be enclosed in dragchain(x/y using 10x20, z using 10x10).

    for more pictures/ details please see the above reddit post link.

    as always if anyone sees any problems with the design, or wants to suggest anything, your opinion is welcome. manny of the parts have been ordered already, however.

    thanks!
    Last edited by super7800; 10-02-2019 at 08:59 AM.

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