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  1. #1

    Help with Flashforge Creator Pro

    Hello all!
    I have to admit to being quite new to this world, but am learning fast. At work, we purchased a Makerbot method for printing a bunch of parts for some prototypes, and it is working beautifully. Printing PLA with PVA supports.
    In order to keep up with demand for parts (and also to solve my desire to delve into 3D printing), I purchased a Creator Pro for home.
    For the life of me I cannot get the PVA to play nice with the PLA. I can print PLA alone...no issues. PVA alone...no issues. Combine the two...disaster every time.
    I have tried temperatures from 180-220 for each, bed temps from 50-80. Have changed to a borosilicate glass bed. Realized that one of the extruders had a bad hot end from the factory (installed poorly), so I replaced using Micro-Swiss All Metal conversion kit.
    Purchased Simplify 3D for more control over the print.
    Ran through all the specs of the Makerbot Print project file to try to find the differences.
    Attaching pics of PLA, PVA and combination results.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated before I totally lose my sanity!!!!!

    Thank you all ahead of time!!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    try flashprint - for dual material prints I've always found it to be vastly superior to simplify3d.

    As far as I can see that last pic - you don't have a purge wall or purge column. This is the problem I've always had with simplify3d and dual extrusion. It just doesn't work.

    Have you tried flashprint for this ?

  3. #3

    still fighting the battle

    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    try flashprint - for dual material prints I've always found it to be vastly superior to simplify3d.

    As far as I can see that last pic - you don't have a purge wall or purge column. This is the problem I've always had with simplify3d and dual extrusion. It just doesn't work.

    Have you tried flashprint for this ?

    I have been working all week with flashprint...like the program, but still no luck. no issues with adhesion to the bed. raft forms beautifully out of pla...then it all goes downhill from there. I have worked PVA temps from 190-215. Tried first layer speed all the way down to 10 mm/s.
    Tried both tree and linear supports.
    tried purge tower, wall, both together.

    Definitely at wits end...
    any further thoughts on your part would be appreciated!

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    why are you using a raft ?
    Completely unnecessary - don't think I've ever used on one the knp (replicator pro clone) , also the pva won't stick well to pla - one reason it's good for supports. You don't actually want supports to stick to prints.

    That right there could be your problem.
    If your settings are good and your print surface is good - then rafts are pretty much never needed.

    rafts are usually used when there is poor bed adhesion or the bed is not properly flat. There isn't really any other use for them.

    up the first layer to 150% and slow it right down to around 10mm/s. It might be necessary to adjust the z gap as well by a tiny amount for a little squish.

    one issue is that pva tends to work best at 50-65c print bed and - as I understand it - pva wants nearer 100c.

    One thing you can do is to make a solution of pva and warm water and use that as a print surface.

    Just dissilve pva in as little hot water as you can get away with. Then heat the print bed to about 60c - and wipe it with the pva solution.
    let it dry (fairly quick) then repeat 2-3 times.
    Use the printbed at say 70c.
    Both the pla and pva should stick really well to that and no need for rafts.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-22-2019 at 07:14 AM.

  5. #5
    Well don't I feel stupid now!!!
    I was using the rafts because I'm still learning my way through everything, and every one I have run through on the Makerbot Method at work always has a raft...so I assumed it was necessary.
    It's not... but I didn't think of that.
    I have a glass bed and use a glue stick...worked perfectly!!!!
    Let the marathon printing begin!!!!
    Thank you so much for the help!!!

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    You're welcome.
    Yep glass and gluestick is a good combination :-)

    bear in mind that while your flashforge is based on an old makerbot design, it's actually superior to the modern makerbots and vastly upgraded from the original replicator pros.

    You don't get a massive print volume, but they are really excellent machines.

  7. #7
    I didn't realize that it was based on makerbot design, but you're right... The new method doesn't let you do much alteration to what it's pre-programmed to do.
    As far as the size, life would be easier if I had a quarter inch more in each direction, but I will make do.
    I have to step back and remind myself that I have had this machine for 3 weeks now, and never even paid attention to them before that....
    I will learn

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    at one point the makerbot replicator dual, were the most copied 3d printer on the planet. (way way back in the dim an distant past - about 6 years ago :-) )
    Then josef prusa invented the i3, and gradually copies of that became the most produced fdm machines around.
    It's just really really easy to make. Particularly if - like the ender 3 - you throw away all the best aspects of the original design.

    The rep clones are still around, and have been constantly improved by the chinese companies that make them. They Just have not increased the print volume.

  9. #9
    Thanks for being a wealth of information and help. Once I get past the stuff for work, then the learning will really begin. I'm sure that at some point I will have more than 1..lol

  10. #10
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yeah they do become a sort of obsession :-)

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