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  1. #1
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Didn't know this... Delrin printing.

    Acetal/Delrin is my engineering plastic of choice.
    Never even though to ask if we can print this stuff.
    Sure enough!

    Anyone have experience with this?

    TYIA

  2. #2
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    https://gizmodorks.com/acetal-3d-printer-filament/

    Looks like you need an active filament dryer, heated bed surface 130C made of wood or paper, heated enclosure and some luck.

  3. #3
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    All but the heated bed is not a problem. Filament lives in a 60*C chamber. Thanks for the link!

  4. #4
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Formaldehyde is a problem

  5. #5
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    You may want to try Taulman 910 and 645, they do not "need" a heated bed but an enclosure is probably still a good idea..
    Both suffer from poor diameter uniformity so can be an issue when trying to get tight tolerances but neither have much smell and 910 does not get wet as fast as other nylones
    http://taulman3d.com/alloy-910-spec.html
    http://taulman3d.com/910-features.html

    http://taulman3d.com/nylon-645-spec.html
    http://taulman3d.com/645-features.html

    http://taulman3d.com/how-to-choose.html

  6. #6
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    I am printing 645 for the first time right now. So far works nice with a skirt .05 from the model to help keep it from warping I would post some pics but the website seems to be broken

  7. #7
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    Could not attach from advance edit.. so back to basics..
    Both the barrel and jig are 645 Nylon. The barrel is a stop that will slide over a rod and is printed 100% solid. The hole in the side goes all the way through to the other side and will be threaded to take a 10/32 screw. The jig will hold the barrel so I can thread the hole straight. Or so the plan is.. will update i a bit


    Image795936897061549299.jpg

    Image8897284617131859290.jpg

    Image7459529445536599716.jpg

    Jig worked like a charm, stop barrel threaded straight through. Not all that happy with how the nylon taps.. kind of ragged as it is not as hard as PLA or ABS. It really should be tapped with holes that have multiple perimeter walls but I can not print this laying on it's side.. Will try making the hole even small before tapping.
    Last edited by airscapes; 04-14-2019 at 01:55 PM.

  8. #8
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Yea Nylon is kind of mushy that way. Never liked working with nylon but it is a material of choice for rugged applications.

    The Alloy 910 looks interesting. They don't give out much on the true composition but definitely a material I would like to try.
    Nothing too scary about the description and FDA approvals are a nice touch.

    One reason I was looking toward Delrin is the toughness. Basically engineering rod stock has excellent lubricity and excellent wear characteristics.
    I use machined Delrin for recumbent idlers and have not worn one out yet with over 10,000 miles of all weather riding.
    And on a recumbent trike, it has a significant load put on it.
    I'll stick with machining Delrin. Easy enough to work with.

    Nylons are a different class all together in my book. Thanks for the information. It will certainly come in handy.

    My printer uses an internal heater that warms the chamber to 60C blowing directly under the build plate. The build plate gets toasty.
    And it is a direct drive feeder so no worries there... and it has a fixed small nozzle at 0.35mm. 260C is not an issue in the least.
    I just won't run materials with particulates. That is just asking for trouble.

    Have you tried warming a tap and using some mineral oil as lube? Say 100-120C either chasing the threads or a new thread?
    Basically a recast and anneal on-the-spot temperature range.

    This is good info indeed! Thanx

  9. #9
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    No I have not tried to heat that tap.. The results were better with the 910 than the 645. I have also printed in PETG and will probably also do ABS. There is no mechanical reason to use nylon for this part, threads just have to hold up. I would much prefer a bass insert but the person who want this part does not want the added bulk. Just figured if you were looking for a material that what tough 910 prints like PLA.

  10. #10
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Yea, now you got me very curious on the Alloy 910. I see $36 trying to pry their way out of my wallet. Saw the free shipping limited time offer. Oops!... almost slipped onto the buy button by "mistake".

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