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  1. #1
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Looking for pet-g settings

    I know if you get the settigs right for pet-g it's crazy strong.

    But never recorded or saved them the last time I printed something in petg that was strong.

    So what do you lot use ?
    retraction and print speeds, temperature settings, extrusion ratios etc :-)

    So who's got good pet-g settings ?
    Oh yeah, it's white pet-g if that helps :-)

    And before you ask, have no clue who made what I'm currently using, got a cheap 1kg roll on its way from ebay - sovol brand. No I hadn't heard of them either :-)
    but at ?15 a kg delivered, figured it was worth a punt :-)

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    What i have so far:
    print temp: 240c
    bed temp: 80c
    those seem to be spot on. Getting good layer adhesion and it's sticking way way better than it was at 65c.

    retractions wise currently up to 4mm at 70mm/s.

    Just changed from 50mm/s = which is good, but slow. To 60mm/s - still slow, but I want all the speed I can get :-)
    Running at 0.32mm layer with first layer at 150% height.

    Got first layer speed at 10%, I'll try that at 15% for the next test.

    Right think this is good as it's going to get.

    15% first layer
    65mm/s max speed - tempted to go for 75, but everything I've read reckons 65 is about as good as it gets.
    4.5mm retraction at 70mm/s
    240 print temp
    80c bed temp
    fan is on 0% first layer and 50% for all others.
    stringing is minimal. Top klayer finish is acceptable.
    Adhesion on the printbite looks good. no lifting visible anywhere.

    Time to make an actual mould :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-27-2019 at 01:22 PM.

  3. #3
    Engineer-in-Training
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    I use a direct drive machine and S3D V4.0.1PETG is eSun Normaly I use a .5 nozzle Layer height of .3 Nozzle Temp 245Bed Temp 80Speed no faster than 45mmSInfil is modle dependeant Retaction .80 @40mmSFirst layer is at 100% heightI enter the average measured diameter of the filament which my current roll is 1.70mm I print 2 walled squares to verify starting height (if start is correct print height is same as model) Wall thickness should be same as model if Extrude multiplier is correct. I have found that using an extrude multiplier 2 or 3 higher than correct wall thickness gives a stronger part. When exact size is not important I normally over extrude slightly. For instance last setup .90 gave me exact wall thickness. going to .93 gave me no space between threads and only slightly fat walls. Also print a 2 layer flat square to help with the extrude multiplier Top layer should be solid with no spaces between threads when examined with a loop or microscope.Normally do a single layer single pass skirt 2mm from part to prime nozzle. On the makergear m2 the nozzle primes over the side of the bed ad always grab thread with tweezers so as not to curl up and get stuck to nozzle. Crud on nozzle causes a lot of trouble with PETG so a clean nose is a must!Good luck
    Fan should be off on all layers

    I added the attachment an look at the mess that became of my nicely formatted post.. Not going to fix it till you get a look.. all the carriage returns were stripped and extra spaces.. wtf
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    looks like I've got a fair bit of blobbing. Think I'll have to drop print speed. Or maybe not.
    But it's stuck fine to the bed :-)

    The models i want to make have a lot of overhang. underhang (or whatever that's called) and horizontal round holes.
    Hmm, usually always use 1.0 for multiplier.
    have to try -0.90.
    Certainly looks like there's a wee bit extra plastic coming out that has nowhere useful to go.

    It's interesting you can see the little bits of plastic build up on the nozzle, then stick to the print. They all seem to be sticking inside the void, which needs to be as smooth as possible.
    So that's not good lol
    Tha outside of the model looks great. smooth and clean.
    no obvious stringing,
    Eventually, I'll hopefully, be making these on the ctc i3 - which is direct drive. At the moment they'll be on the delta.
    The outside of the mould is great. But the inside is where all the little bits of plastic accumulated and that's the bit that counts lol
    Strength is superb. Dimensions are acceptable, not quite as accurate as the pla ones - but then I have just scraped the interior excessively with a curved bit of metal (back of the mantis buzzard blade). so that most likely accounts for that.

    All holes for the metal inserts are as good as the pla prints.
    So just need to sort that tiny bit of blobbing and we're good to go :-)


    what browser are you using ?
    The format thing does ring a distant bell.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-27-2019 at 04:00 PM.

  5. #5
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Chrome browser.
    Try printing that 2 wall square I attached. The thinkness of the wall should be 1.2mm and 3mm tall.. This is how I find the proper extrude multiplier.
    Never used a delta but I keep the speed to a max of 45mmS When I see a lot of stuff stuck to the nozzle it is normally because I don't have the starting height set correctly. once you get a bugger on there they keep on getting stuck.. PETG is very sticky. Also slow your speed when not printing.. axis movers.. default X on my MG was 300mmS droping to 200 really reduced strings and the nose snot you are talking about.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I tend to use max of 70mm/s movement speed. or match the print speed, cuts down on a lot of the little spikes you get from sudden acceleration.
    I also never cross the model when printing, cuts down on cobwebs.

    I like to print actual things.
    starting height=smoosh factor I presume.
    ie: how much you push the filament into the bed for the first layer.

    okay I'll drop that a wee bit.
    Currently just printing a tiny mould wthout hinges, handle etc.
    So rectangle with void.
    I can check everything I need from that and also tell if the mould will be smooth enough form use.
    It's 1.8 grams. :-)

    try firefox - should fix your formatting and also is faster and more reliable than chrome in general.
    Chrome is a pretty lousy browser, being almost a full android implementation (but without the ability to run android apps - which would be useful). It takes up a lot of space, resources and is amazing at picking up viruses.
    One of the first things i do on seeing any new clients computer is to remove chrome - if it's there.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-27-2019 at 04:33 PM.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    okay the smooshing does seem to be helping.
    Also dropped temp back to 240, speed down to 45, extrusion multiplier 0.9 and first layer height at 100%.

    It'll take a frigging age to print the larger moulds, I guess that's why I have extra printers :-)

    I'll stop cooling next, can't see how that's going o help - but it's something I haven't tried yet.

    is there a particular pet-g colour you think works better than the others ?

    With pla, for me red is always much better and gives way cleaner and better prints than any other colour.

  8. #8
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Color does not matter.. I have Black, white, Blue, Gray, crystal clear, Crystal Blue and crystal Red.. the makergeek Crystal is not as nice as the eSun.. I has less G in it and is more brittle. Printed the black brackets yesterday .. the fucupuss is the crystal red from before Christmas.. he fell off the shelf and broke a finger.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    the weird thing is I'm getting stringing in the void. If I was just printing something solid, it would be great.
    What I can't figure out is where the stringing is coming from. The head never crosses the hole, always goes round the edge. So why do i have a spiders web in the middle ?

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Try a little more retraction. One thing PETG is good for is spider webs. When the part is done my head moves to the side and there is a spiderweb from the part to the head.. always...

    If you are using z lift, try turning that off, I never use lift.

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