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  1. #1
    Student
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    Ender 3 print skiping lines, creating gaps

    20190314_151048.jpg20190314_151119.jpg20190314_151212.jpg

    I tryed printing this as a test but a piece broke of and gaps can be seen.
    Im using 3 lines as walls after speculating that the infill is inbetween the wall layers creating gaps but it looks like it didnt help with 3 walls.

    Whats wrong?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 03-15-2019 at 06:47 AM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    hang on while I engage my psychic powers.............

    Nope not working today, so you'll have to give us some actual information :-)

    start with:
    printer, filament type, printing settings: temperatures speeds, slicer etc.

    I'd say you're printing too fast and at too low a temperature. But without any information whatsoever, that's just a wild guess. :-)

  3. #3
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    printer: Ender 3
    filament type: PLA,
    printing settings:
    temperatures: 220
    speeds:
    • Print speed 60
    • infill speed 80
    • wall speed 30
    • inner wall speed 30
    • top/bottom speed 15
    • Inital layer speed 10

    slicer: Cura
    I attached the proflie.
    Hope this is enough.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well that all looks good.
    To be honest, just going by all the posts round here, I'd send the printer back, and get something less problematical - which at the moment is just about any other printer.
    People have so many problems with ender 3's that they just aren't worth the hassle.
    I have no idea why they're still being bought. Obviously not looking on here first.

    And that'll be cura as well - ender 3 and cura definitely NOT a good combination.

    Try slic3r.
    Actually try replicator-g - has the advantage of being able to control the printer and uses slic3r slicing engine.


    No dout someone with an e-3 will pop along and explain how to get the bloody thing to work. But me, I'd send it back and get something else.
    The bed design sucks, the extruders clearly suck and the cura settings do seem more than a little tricky.

  5. #5
    Student
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    well that all looks good.
    To be honest, just going by all the posts round here, I'd send the printer back, and get something less problematical - which at the moment is just about any other printer.
    People have so many problems with ender 3's that they just aren't worth the hassle.
    I have no idea why they're still being bought. Obviously not looking on here first.

    And that'll be cura as well - ender 3 and cura definitely NOT a good combination.

    Try slic3r.
    Actually try replicator-g - has the advantage of being able to control the printer and uses slic3r slicing engine.


    No dout someone with an e-3 will pop along and explain how to get the bloody thing to work. But me, I'd send it back and get something else.
    The bed design sucks, the extruders clearly suck and the cura settings do seem more than a little tricky.
    Well thanks for your help, But i'll see what the other says before giving up on my ender 3. Since other have working ones i'll like to try fixing mine aswell.

  6. #6
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    I do not have an Ender3.

    It appear that you are having major problems with the Z-Axis movement.
    One layer is too thin the next is too thick or missing as though the Z-Axis is being stuck then popping into place.

    I would re-adjust the Z-Axis it could be that it is not square from right to left causing this sudden snapping into place.
    The Z-Axis should move smoothly up and down, this is only a guess.
    Please make a short video post it to a google drive like online share and supply a link so we can see.
    Make sure that we can clearly see the Z-Axis movement, as we have already seen the results.

  7. #7
    Student
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    So after filming and looking at the print it turned out like this.
    20190316_121630.jpg20190316_121640.jpg
    The video isnt short about 2h since i messed up and put another clip into it, as well i used a free version of a softwear so it hade to put a water mark in the center....i hope you can still see the z axil.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u8r...ew?usp=sharing
    It has a few flaws still but i want to know if the Z axil is good.

  8. #8
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    In the posted Image your model looks good

    I use A Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint - with a OctoLapse plugin to get this kind of effect.

    PI3 SD Card Holder
    https://youtu.be/yDIp0vO5w14

    7mm Bed Clamp Small
    https://youtu.be/xG2-Bq0qcjw


    OctoPrint Controls my 3D Printers and WebCams while the OctoLapse help create a Print lapsed video.





    Last edited by Roberts_Clif; 03-17-2019 at 11:28 AM.

  9. #9
    Student
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif View Post
    In the posted Image your model looks good

    I use A Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint - with a OctoLapse plugin to get this kind of effect.

    PI3 SD Card Holder
    https://youtu.be/yDIp0vO5w14

    7mm Bed Clamp Small
    https://youtu.be/xG2-Bq0qcjw


    OctoPrint Controls my 3D Printers and WebCams while the OctoLapse help create a Print lapsed video.





    I spent 200+$ on equipments today. So i hope to go get great results

  10. #10
    ok thanks for the info

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