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  1. #1

    Having issues 3D printing Printable Scenery's Black Ship (New to printing)

    Specs:

    Stock Creality Ender 3

    PLA Black

    Layer height .2

    Infill 20%

    Y offset .2

    Nozzle Temperature 200C

    Bed Temperature 60C

    Recently got a Creality Ender 3, and went through the usual troubleshooting issues of bed leveling, wheel loosening, filament kinking, etc. I thought I'd be able to print on a larger scale and handle the 5 pieces that come together into a fantasy Pirate ship from printable scenery. When printing the first piece, the top of the bow, I noticed some layers under the railing had come loose, and thought it more an issue that the railings had no support, though the site says you don't need it. Second part, lower bow printed with no issue, but the curved areas seemed a little rough. Upon printing the third, the midsection the issues came back, but worse, and I'm worried the problem has gotten worse.


    This is the main issue that made me stop all prints until it was fixed, I think its called blobbing / pimpling?
    unnamed.jpg

    Noticed these strings inside as the infill was being printed. Wanted to share it as another symptom of what might be wrong.
    qwe.jpg

    Any advice for how to fix it? I'm at my wit's end...

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what are your retraction settings ?
    got a link to the model ?

    Just because it says doesn't need supports, doesn't mean it'll always be clean. sometimes the bridging can be quite long, and different slicers deal with it differently.
    what speed are you printing at ?

    Dunno if it's just me - but the bead always seems to be large and not obviously part of the those above and below from the ender 3's.
    Might be cura I suppose. Never did get on with it ;-)

  3. #3
    I have been using Ultimaker Cura since it came on the SD card that came with the printer. Is there a better slicer to work with?

    Print at 60 mm/s as default

    Here's an image of what I'm trying to print with the retraction settings on the right. Hope this is what you meant by link to model.
    Data.jpg

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    picture too small to read the writing.

    picture of boat is fine :-)

  5. #5
    -Notices the pic didn't scale as I thought it would-

    Crap! Sorry....

    Not sure which settings you want, so I'll list everything the sliver offers

    Retraction Enabled
    Retract at Layer change Disabled
    Retraction Distance 5mm
    Retraction Speed 40mm/s
    Retraction Retract speed 40mm/s
    Retraction Prime speed 40mm/s
    Retraction extra prime amount 0mm cubed
    Retraction minimum travel 0.8mm
    Maximum retraction count 90
    Nozzle Switch retraction distance 16mm
    Nozzle Switch retraction speed 20mm/s
    Nozzle Switch retract speed 20mm/s

    Hope that's enough

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    okay so you've got a short bowden tube. Long slow retractions are always going to be an issue. Not sure why people recmmend them. to be honest.
    As a general rule the faster you can retract the cleaner the print will be.
    5mm is probably too long, certainly at 40mm. by the time it's pulled the filament in and pushed it back out, it'll have missed the start of the next printing section.
    The general rule is make retractions as fast as you can. 60-70mms is my usual retraction speed - on all machines.
    Also you want the shortest amount you can get away with. 2-3mm is what I usually aim for.

    Not a clue what: retraction count 90 - means.

    slicer wise - it is worth buying simplify3d. It's probably the only software I've paid for in the last 10 years, and I don't regret it.
    Currently run the 2 deltas and ctc i3 off that and my replicator pro clone from flashprint.

    there are a number of other slicers out there - slic3r would be cura's main rival.
    A good slicer runs the gamut between too many settings and not enough. For me, simplify3d hits the balance perfectly with more than enough settings to tinker with, but not so many that it's just bloody confusing (like retraction count :-) )

    Quite a few threads around here listing alternative free slicers - it is worth trying them out.

  7. #7
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    retraction count 90 is likely 90 steps; almost half a turn on a 200 step stepper.

  8. #8
    Set distance to 2mm, speed to 70mm/s still having the issue. Think it might just be that Cura can't set up this print properly? If so, might just bite the bullet and get Simply3D while wallet still aches from Christmas.

  9. #9
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Recently I've been playing with some retraction profiles. The results of minor tweaks are astounding! From utterly failing to the best print ever with a single change of less that 10% in the settings. Another where prints had blobs consistently on each layer at the start to nice smooth well managed seams which required a 50% change in values.

    If you watch CNC Kitchen on YouTube, you will see how Stephan (?) has made test parts that change parameters throughout the print. This lets you pick the parameters that work. Temperature; retractions; speed; feed; etc... and combinations of those in a torture model that is easily evaluated at the end.

    Having dealt with various qualities of materials I'm learning quickly that one profile doesn't work for all. You either manage the materials, or you qualify every material you run from different suppliers and build a profile for each.

    I have 2 different PETG materials from two different OEM's that will not run properly on each other's profiles... but I can run all my ABS from one supplier through either profile with excellent results.

    Bottom line, this is not a slicer problem. This is a calibration issue. The user has two choices; trust other users to create highly functional profiles, or do it yourself. Personally, I prefer to do it myself based on known parameters.

  10. #10
    I'll try varying the retractions from 2-4, speed from 40-100 (though Cura's text box turns yellow when I go above 70, suppose figuring out if that's genuine is for testing). Good to know I may not need a $150 piece of software so soon after Christmas.

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