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Thread: Wobbly print

  1. #1

    Wobbly print

    Hi, new here and new to the 3D printing world. Just assembled my creality ender 3 pro and did my first prints. A problem I had was that the thread was wobbly/wavy instead of straight in some layers. Followed the instructions from the maker and by a youtuber. Also did a leveling test print which looked ok.

    Any ideas of the reason to why the thread turned out this wobbly?
    Nozzle: 0,4 mm
    nozzle temp 200 C
    bed temp: 60 C
    wall layers: 3
    layer thickness: 0,2 mm

    one factor is room temperature it?s lower than a normal indoor temperature. It?s like 10-12 C instead of ~20 C. Not sure if this can play a part.

    it?s printed upside down, so first image is in the beginning of the print, second is in the end

    3B7D2F72-500D-44B5-9C4D-2510D6A648D8.jpg

    4DF3E3C7-B7D1-4AA0-A49C-34740668165E.jpg

  2. #2
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Cold room can have some impact but I'd say you want a little more temperature on your filament also.
    Any way to put a box around your printer with a small heater blowing through it?

    Also look to see if the infill is crowding the walls. With 3 walls, I wouldn't think so, but worth noting.

  3. #3
    I’m titally new at this but I don’t think it’s the infill since it’s just one side and not all over that side.

    I also noticed when wet sanding it filament lines broke of like splinters, like the didn’t melt in to the model as they should. Does that indicate too low temperature? What’s ideal? I’ve read 205 degrees at some places and I’m just 5 degrees below that. Does that make that big of a difference?

  4. #4
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    5 degree temperature changes are about what you need to dial in a filament but for the most part, PLA, I can run 215 all day. My machine does a layer 1 at 235.
    Funny thing about plastic, it has a huge transition phase so just look at it like "how wet do I want my plastic".

    I was using a sampled MakeShaper red PLA (Thanks again MakeShaper!). Their filament is a very nice opaque filament which is hard to find. On the first 2 layers, I got a gloss red, deep but gloss. The remainder of the print came out a beautiful matte red! You couldn't have dialed it more perfect if you tried! What I am getting at is that parts that are highly opaque are easier to analyse printer idiosyncrasies.

    When I was thinking about your post, and I must preface this with saying I do not have an Ender 3, I wanted to ask how smooth the build is. Some of what I see in the print is a harmonic that lends itself to consider vibration as an issue. If that was mixed with some catches along the route, as in one or more of the three axes may not be traveling smoothly, then you will definitely see this mechanical interference in the print. I print on a magnetic base. A shift in the print is inevitable at some point. Any base stiffness issues?

    Do crank up the heat some. With PLA, you just don't want to burn it... make carbon in the tip. Stay under 235 and you should be okay. I'll also plug CNC Kitchen on YouTube as his approach to solving problems is very in depth. Many videos discuss print quality and how he goes about solving it. Quite simple, actually Good luck and enjoy.

  5. #5
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    The Creality Ender 3 has concentric nuts holding the Bed Plate if these are not tightened correctly the Bed will in fact wobble and Shift from side to side.


    Video Attached

  6. #6
    I tightened the concentric nuts underneat the build plate when I assembled the printer just as I tightened every concentric nut on the other carriages but maybe something went wrong since it was the first one

    I?m wondering if it can be the unwinding of the filament spool causing vibrations but then it wouldnt be concentrated to the same areas over several layers I guess. Mainly two problem areas now.

  7. #7
    Technologist TommyDee's Avatar
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    Failure to feed will only result in a thin or skipping traces unless things are flexing.

    Temperature and movement restriction would be repeatable.
    Unplug your stepper motors to test for mechanism smoothness.
    Your print will show you what positions you should duplicate to check for restrictions.
    Wiring snags are the usual suspect.

  8. #8
    I will try a higher temperature for sure, can understand if that solves the problem with non sticking layers/loose threads but not tye wavy/wobbly pattern. Will look for wiring snags or other stuff that might cause disturbance. Thanks for your thoughts

  9. #9
    Tried to tighten the belt for the extruder and x-axis cable a bit, also went down in layer thickness to 0,15 mm and higher temperature 205 C. Printed the popular filament guide. Which is a two piece. Pretty much the same problem as the first print. Some problems in the beginning, after 10 layer or so. This time all around the models. The end cap became almost see through at this part, like a mesh, don't think that was designed that way. The arm itself had similar problem that disappeared and the reapperad in the end of the print.






  10. #10
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    odd that it's just at that particuler height.

    The enders use a bowden feed system. Could be your getting constriction at that height and the filament isn't feeding properly.

    With it being tied into the height it's most likely going to be a mechanical issue.

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