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  1. #1

    CTC FDM Glooping at nozzle.

    I have a CTC FDM Printer (Makerbot Replicator 2 clone). When printing, there is melted filament that oozes out slowly at the top of the nozzle, where it screws in to the hot end. It's not a fast leak, but it gloops up over time, and on longer print jobs, it starts either dripping onto the project, or causing spider web stringing. I have replaced the old nozzle with a brand new nozzle, and made sure it was properly tightened.

    Would it be possible / advisable to try putting a layer or two of Teflon tape around the threads of the nozzle that screw in to the hot end?
    I researched, and found that the melting temperature of Teflon tape is 260C, and since I primarily run PLA, I wouldn't exceed 200-205C. Maybe with some PETG applications I would run as high as 250C.

    I know I could just replace the entire hot end assembly, but that requires taking everything apart, and I am still rather novice at this. Also, I purchased this printer second hand, and it was already all assembled, so I do not have first hand knowledge of how to disassemble and reassemble.

    Thank you for your assistance.


  2. #2
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
    Washington State, USA
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    I would say it should be OK.

    Blue Monster? PTFE Thread Seal Tape (-268?C to +260?C) PTFE is completely stable up to +260?C. Decomposition is slow up to 400?C.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    to remove the nozzle - heat the nozzle to about 180.
    grip the heat block CAREFULLY ! with pliers. making syre to avoid wires and tape.
    And unscrew the nozzle with a small spanner.

    Oh yeah remove filament first.

    The cheap ctc rep clones do seem to be prone to this.

    To completely dissesemble that extruder is really easy.
    See the two bolt/screw heads at the bottom of the fans.
    Renove those and everything else just comes apart.
    Keep an eye on where the two white plastic spacers go - no matter how aware of them you are the bloody things always fall off and roll away somewhere.

    The bolts pass through the fan, spacers, heatsink and then a metal block and then into the stepper motor. They basically hold everything together with the metal block and carriage the anchor.

    You can remove the nozzle without heating it - I used to do that. But it's much easier if heated. I suppose the aluminium expands more than the brass.

    I have a pair of turbo pliers that clamp with straight, parallel jaws, that work really well.
    I have no idea where they came from - but look around they are perfect for doing stuff with 3d printers :-)
    I think I might have got them from a client at some point. But they are perfect for gripping a heat block :-)

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