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  1. #1

    anycubic kossel - major issues

    Hi.
    I am still pretty green at this stuff. I bought an anycubic kossel 2nd hand and I've been goofing around with it, but now I'd like to get a little bit more serious and get some higher quality prints. Small things print ok, but I'm trying to make a giant f-topus and I'm just having the worst time. Terrible bed adhesion, spiderwebbing, layer errors.

    20181031_150624.jpg I gave up on this guy after an arm broke off.

    I just don't know how to go about addressing these issues. I tried following the configuration instructions on youtube, but I can't seem to get all the software to work properly and I've been just printing directly from the sd card. I don't know how to change the settings on this thing. There seems to be very little info on the google about operating these things, so that's why I'm here. Can you help?

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Hello and welcome

    You say you print smaller objects ok!
    What slicer are you using, Could you post your settings, and What filament are you using.
    Let's See if the forum can help you get to a solution.

  3. #3
    I honestly don't know how to answer your questions. I'm using the machine with the settings from the previous user. I'm using Repetier as a slicer, which uses either Cura or Slic3r (I can't remember which I used for this gcode).

    As for settings, I don't know what the relevant settings are or how to find them. I'm working straight from the kossel display. I only have access to linux computers and I have had a lot of trouble making all the software work right and also seeing the printer.

    Filament is 1.75 mm PLA. Do you need any more details than that?

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    I would download Cura for Linux and configure it to you current slicer settings.

    I use most versions of Cura but find that Cura 15.04.6 the simplest to setup.

    Here is my profiles for Cura 15.04.6 the you can import after setting Up Cura 15.04.6 for your 3D Printer.

    Again the Linux Cura Link
    https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ul...are/platform/3
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Roberts_Clif; 11-01-2018 at 10:18 AM.

  5. #5
    15.04.6 seems to be only for debian (I'm running ubuntu and it doesn't seem to be compatible) The newest version communicates with the printer easily, but something is clearly wrong.
    Attachment 12049
    It wants to start prints way off the print bed. I also tried to use the kossel pro pre-config, but my machine doesn't have the auto-leveling probe so I hacked together the gcode, but clearly it still doesn't work.
    Last edited by funktopus; 11-01-2018 at 03:22 PM. Reason: formatting

  6. #6
    Engineer-in-Training Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    https://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-build

    Ubuntu/Linux


    cura-build can build AppImage packages of Cura.
    To build, make sure these dependencies are installed, then clone this repository and run the following commands from your clone:

    git clone http://github.com/Ultimaker/cura-build.git
    cd cura-build

    mkdir build
    cd build

    cmake ..
    make
    make package

    or

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wi...urce-on-Ubuntu

    or

    I use a networked Raspberry Pi 2 with Octoprint installed it has Cura 15.04.6 installed

    https://octoprint.org/
    Last edited by Roberts_Clif; 11-01-2018 at 03:58 PM.

  7. #7
    got frustrated trying to install cura-build so I tried again to configure my 3.5.1 to work properly. I googled up the following advice:


    I wondered too the first time I installed it (especially when Anycubic talks about having a profil in Cura 15.04).
    In the end, you should be able to take any kossel system printer as bases, and tweek a few things.

    I personnally used Hero101 settings, changed width and depth to 200, and hight to 333. ( little joke I guess from Anycubic engeneers.)
    Elliptic plate, Marlin Gcode, and for the printhead settings just take your ruller ( I don't use print one by one for the moment).

    Like magic I was up and running again. Sorta. I am trying to print a funktopus at a much more reasonable size.
    Now it's PAINFULLY slow. I've got about 4mm of height in almost 2h30m of printing time. The layer quality is also significantly worse.

    I'm really just mystified. I don't really understand what is different between the kossel pro settings and the hero101. I'm generally pretty savvy and can figure stuff out, or at least tinker, but I'm completely at a loss here.

    Octoprint looks interesting. Do you think it would run on an raspberry pi V1?

  8. #8
    Engineer-in-Training Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by funktopus View Post
    Octoprint looks interesting. Do you think it would run on an raspberry pi V1?
    Do not have an answer for you other than. I have both my 3D Printer on there own Raspberry Pi 2B's,
    have seen video streaming issues but nothing I was worried about.

    Octoprint Recommended hardware is : Raspberry Pi 3.

    Please note that the Raspberry Pi Zero is W is not recommended since severe performance issues were observed.

  9. #9
    Sigh.
    So the configuration problem is solved. It was super complicated. I had to check the "origin at center" box. *facepalm* Now I'm printing at full speed. Quality is improved, but I'm still getting spiderwebbing. It seems like some PLA is slightly leaking out from the top of the nozzle causing globs of material to be deposited. Now that the machine is moving full speed it is much less, but it's still definitely there.

  10. #10
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    webbing is down to three things.
    make and colour of filament. printing temperature and the retraction settings.
    Retraction on a bowden setup can be tricky.
    On my he3d k200 I use 2-3mm retraction distance and 60-70mm retraction speed.

    That tends to give me the best results.
    The other thing I do that completely removed stringing for single model prints, is to totally stop the printhead travelling across empty space.
    In simplify3d this is the relevant setting.


    What that does is route the printhead around the already printed bits of the model. So any stringing is not noticeable.
    Delta's can have pretty high travel speeds without any probpems. So it doesn't effect print times in any noticeable way.
    The other retraction settings I change according to the filament type and what I'm printing.
    This isn't the computer i print from so the settings shown above are currently pretty random.

    One thing to avoid on a bowden setup are very long retraction distances.
    I've seen people recommend 6mm and longer.
    Bear in mind there is ALways slack in a bowden setup. so long retraction settings will result in short periods where there is no filament flowing at all. Which will cause it's own issues.
    Short and fast is the way to go :-)
    But iy can only work if the filament is at the right temperature. I find that printing pla hotter works best for me.
    Seen people print pla at 180c - 200c is my lowest. And that's usually reserved for black pla printed at fairly low speeds.

    And avoid crossing outline for travel movements.

    I have no idea if you can do this on other slicers - as the only other one I use is flashprint - and it doesn't have this option. But then that's for a direct drive printer and I get zero stringing on it anyway. Even with multi model prints.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 11-07-2018 at 07:46 AM.

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