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  1. #11
    Student
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    10
    Just realized the stock slicing software has a text file that has documented the g-code and stuff from every print (over 1000 pages). And each print has a line in the end code...

    “M140 S0. ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)”

    Not sure if this helps

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by 3Design View Post
    Thanks again for the help earlier to both of you. So seeing as how I cant figure this standalone unit out. Will need to tie into the main board to supply this heated pad with juice. I swapped the thermistors mentioned in the last post and get an accurate reading but it won?t heat and then keep the bed hot it just shuts off after one round of heating....Could either of you elaborate on how I would proceed with this? Im capable of anything but understanding whats required is a bit over my head right nowIt appears I have a Ramps 1.4 board from verifying on google, just with a white coating. It has an unused D8 port for the heating pad and a T1 port for the thermistor...coolThe power supply is a Meanwell RSP-100-12. Will this setup supply enough power for a 200w silicone heating pad? Is there any tests to verify? I have a voltmeterThen how to proceed... upgrade the power supply if needed...Do I NEED the Marlin source code.... or just a slicing software other than the recommended Tinkerine Suite which has few standard settings and input a line in g-code?Bluestacks Kodi Lucky PatcherBeen 2 1/2 months waiting to get this thing a heated bedI appreciate any further assistance!
    very helpfull explications thank you for help
    Last edited by klimbo; 02-24-2019 at 02:37 AM.

  3. #13
    Creality CR-10S Pro heated bed can heat up to its max temperature of 110 degrees Celsius in just 5 minutes. Its output rating is 24V.

  4. #14
    looks awesome!

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by 3Design
    Thanks again for the help earlier to both of you. So seeing as how I cant figure this standalone unit out. Will need to tie into the main board to supply this heated pad with juice. I swapped the thermistors mentioned in the last post and get an accurate reading but it won?t heat and then keep the bed hot it just shuts off after one round of heating....Could either of you elaborate on how I would proceed with this? Im capable of anything but understanding whats required is a bit over my head right nowIt appears I have a Ramps 1.4 board from verifying on google, just with a white coating. It has an unused D8 port for the heating pad and a T1 port for the thermistor...coolThe power supply is a Meanwell RSP-100-12. Will this setup supply enough power for a 200w silicone heating pad? Is there any tests to verify? I have a mybalancenowgetmyoffer.capitalonemywmtotalrewardsvoltmeterThen how to proceed... upgrade the power supply if needed...Do I NEED the Marlin source code.... or just a slicing software other than the recommended Tinkerine Suite which has few standard settings and input a line in g-code? PatcherBeen 2 1/2 months waiting to get this thing a heated bedI appreciate any further assistance!
    thanks for sharing

  6. #16
    First of all I want to say thank you for sharing many parts of your struggles that you've been experiencing trying to make this printer useable. Between this post and what I assume is your other post on the RepRap forums (I'd post the link if I had enough posts on this forum), I've had mostly enough to go on in my own modifications. My wife is the principal of a small school in the Vancouver area of which had purchased one of these printers the year before she started working there, and I've been spending the past month trying to make improvements on.

    I picked up a sheet of aluminum cut to the same size as the Alupanel that I was going to stick the adhesive of the silicon mat to, but it didn't hit me until tonight that the existing screw holes used for levelling/holding the bed aren't going to work with the size of heating mat I have (200x200). Would you mind sharing the dimensions of your bracket? I'm going to need to implement something similar. I had read somewhere that using 6061 grade aluminum and attaching the mat directly to that would work well at heating the glass uniformly.

    I will share some of my pictures and whether or not things work to this same thread in hopes that it might help the next person who comes along with this same printer. I'll also share the configuration changes that I made to the latest Marlin firmware (1.1.9) specific for this printer.

    Thanks again for paving the way with this.

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