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  1. #1

    Can't print the skirt properly

    Hi Everyone
    I have a Creality3D Ender-4 that I've had quite a few problems with but I thought I'd ask about the problems I've been having just getting it to print the skirt of the object I'm trying to print. Here's a picture of what it does:
    IMG_20180821_130139.jpg
    Thoughts? I'm all out of ideas.
    Thanks

    *Edit-
    PLA at 200C and bed at 60C
    Last edited by osterac; 08-21-2018 at 06:28 PM.

  2. #2
    Staff Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Slow the Print Speed down for the First layer.

    I print At 32% or about 3.6mm^3 Per Sec on the First layer, then using "Change At Z" I change the Print speed back to my normal 86% or about 8.3mm^3 Per Sec.
    The first layer is the most important layer and should adhere to the bed, and I normally print this layer slower than the other layers to get the best adhesion possible.
    My setting may be to fast for some 3D Printers though you understand where I am going with this.

  3. #3
    I posted a reply here with images shortly after yours (Roberts_Clif) and it said it needed to be approved by a moderator. At this point I'm not sure if it will show up anytime soon, so I hope one without images will work. Your solution made my prints much better, and I have several successful and usable prints now! Still a few problems like the nozzle rubbing/grinding against already printed material, seams, spaghetti, and "boogers."
    I want to thank you so much for getting me off the ground! I had been banging my head against the wall for a long time.

  4. #4
    Staff Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by osterac View Post
    Still a few problems like the nozzle rubbing/grinding against already printed material, seams, spaghetti, and "boogers."

    This could be caused by Z_Axis not moving the correct distance,

    This could be caused by not enough Stepper motor current to the Z-Axis Stepper motor.
    Or
    It Could be because the Z-Axis is incorrectly adjusted.
    (The lead-screw could be binding / Tension on the wheels could too High causing drag)

    Post your slicer and slicer settings this may help
    Last edited by Roberts_Clif; 09-04-2018 at 08:38 PM.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by osterac View Post
    I posted a reply here with images shortly after yours (Roberts_Clif) and it said it needed to be approved by a moderator. At this point I'm not sure if it will show up anytime soon, so I hope one without images will work. Your solution made my prints much better, and I have several successful and usable prints now! Still a few problems like the nozzle rubbing/grinding against already printed material, seams, spaghetti, and "boogers."I want to thank you so much for getting me off the ground! I had been banging my head against the wall for a long time.
    think you need 10 posts to be allowed to add links and pictures if it is not an OP

  6. #6
    Hi Again
    I'm using cura for everything, and I use a piece of printer paper to level my bed (adjust until the paper doesn't drag against the nozzle).
    Settings in attached (zipped) PDF.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  7. #7
    Staff Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    I am a little lower where you can just feel the drag of the paper under the nozzle.

    .3 Layer Thickness

    .8 top/Bottom Thickness (Should be a multiple of .3 so I would change to .6 or .9)

    .04 Infill overlap (I would suggest .15 - as actual layer width is about .48)

    Retraction Distance 4.5 Retraction retract Speed 20mm/s

    Z-Hop height mine is .075 ~ .1

    Fan Speed 50%

    I use Cura 15.04.6 Most of the time though have printed many with the new Cura 3.xx.x.
    I like the feature where you can print the two surface walls at .14 and the a single Infill at .28 or print three surface walls at .1 and then a single at .3
    (Truly speeds up print time on a fine surface model)

  8. #8
    Thanks for the tips
    I entered your settings and printed 3D benchy at .3 layer thickness. I attached some images of how it came out. What do you think?
    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Staff Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Not looking shabby!


    Now you should be a a good postilion to Print a Temperature Tower.

    I would add a parts cooling fan you will surprised how well they work at eliminating the fuzz.

  10. #10
    OK,
    So I tried to print the temperature tower, but if I print the STL it doesn't print at the right temperatures and when I printed the gcode the filament got jammed. I'll probably get the fans too.
    I tried printing a calibration cube, but I noticed that the cube was skewed - it had 2 sides that were square and 2 that weren't (horizontally). Pic attached. It's about .5 to .6mm off, and it's enough so that when I try to print a lego it won't mate with a real lego. I don't know how I could correct this by adjusting steps per mm.
    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by osterac; 09-11-2018 at 01:16 PM.

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