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  1. #1

    Kossel Mini Build (750/360)

    Hey guys, starting my build log for my Kossel Mini. 750mm tall with 360 mm horizontal extrusions.

    What I do need left are:
    • 8x8 glass for my heated bed or 9" round
    • Wheels
    • Power supply
    • Hobbed Pulley


    IMG_20140501_223206.jpg

    I am trying out Prime line rollers instead of rails and Steve Graber's Wheels as of right now.

    Power supply, I am still deciding between a LED PSU 12V 30A or a ATX/ITX/MicroATX PSU

    Currently having trouble with the m4 screws into the carbon fiber rods. I need to purchase a m4 tap drill.

    This will be the first iteration, all in preparation for the MK-X ​build.

  2. #2
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    Awesome, I look forward to following your thread. Please keep us all posted your your progress! I was talking to someone only a couple weeks ago who just built their own Kossel printer. He loved it!

  3. #3
    Technician f.larsen's Avatar
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    You happen to be running this machine with a heated bed?

    Your amperage choice might be a little high, not sure what board your using though make sure you check the specs first so that you know it can handle that much. More than adequate cooling would be needed as well.

    At the moment I am able to run my Delta nicely off of a Xbox 360 (NOT SLIM) PSU, which is 12A - no heated bed.

  4. #4
    Im using ramps with a mk2A heated bed. Do you have any other recommendations?

  5. #5
    Technician f.larsen's Avatar
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    A MK2A heated bed is a great go to bed. There are rubber mats that I have seen people starting to use, but I haven't heard anything that proves that are a solid route to take.

    I also use RAMPS and a MK2A heated bed, not my Delta though.

    I'm getting off track.

    RAMPS, 4 Motors, 12V 12A PSU(or higher, no more then 12V 20A is needed) and you are good.

    Best of luck with the build.

    For awhile my hotend kept on getting driven into the build plate.

    Oh oh, and as an aside, I am using a nicely polished piece of granite I picked up from Rona as the build plate. Little bit of tape, or glue stick and it works great.

  6. #6
    This is good to hear as I can find a Micro-ATX psu or a mini-itx psu to control my octopi and still fit it within the bed. Is 16A okay for RAMPS and a heated bed?
    Quote Originally Posted by f.larsen View Post
    A MK2A heated bed is a great go to bed. There are rubber mats that I have seen people starting to use, but I haven't heard anything that proves that are a solid route to take.

    I also use RAMPS and a MK2A heated bed, not my Delta though.

    I'm getting off track.

    RAMPS, 4 Motors, 12V 12A PSU(or higher, no more then 12V 20A is needed) and you are good.

    Best of luck with the build.

    For awhile my hotend kept on getting driven into the build plate.

    Oh oh, and as an aside, I am using a nicely polished piece of granite I picked up from Rona as the build plate. Little bit of tape, or glue stick and it works great.

  7. #7
    Technician f.larsen's Avatar
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    For a Delta..... I believe it should be yes. Anybody else who is a little smarter in this area, it would be great if you chimmed in with your experiences.

  8. #8
    I got a tap drill from home depot : Tap Drill and finally assembled the diagonal rods which took up significants amount of time because I was afraid they would split, one did, but just barely.
    I didn't have an allen wrench long enough, so I used a bamboo skewere I had lying around, it worked perfectly.
    Once attached to the effector
    Then I assembled the frame (except for connecting the top piece, still waiting for my motors and vertical carriages:
    Getting the nuts perfectly aligned nearly made me nuts!
    My MK2A board is a too small to fit, so I need to get some larger cork insulation board.

  9. #9
    Technician f.larsen's Avatar
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    Great Progress!

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training nka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f.larsen View Post
    Your amperage choice might be a little high, not sure what board your using though make sure you check the specs first so that you know it can handle that much. More than adequate cooling would be needed as well.
    There's no "max" for amperage. I mean, if the device require 500mAh, he will take only 500mAh from the 30A.

    The only problem with too much amp, is if you short something or if there's a design flaw, diode might not be able to "catch" the power and will blow.

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