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  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    what electronics setup are you using ?

  2. #12
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    Control board is a Mks Sbase, chosen purely for the reason it has software settable driver current and was the cheapest board I could find with this feature. The SD card based text file config is another bonus for making tuning and setup easier.

    The motors are the cheapest NEMA 17s I could find off aliexpress, hotend is an e3d v6 clone from the same place. No endstops because that's part of why I needed software settable driver current (the other part is no fiddling with trimpots). If I'm missing something please tell me because I forgot to order it then :P. PSU if you're wondering is one of the cheap LED PSUs off aliexpress, 120 watts which is plenty for what I'm using and could probably handle a small heated bed. My solidoodle 2 has a 100W power brick and runs a 150x150 heated bed.

    I'm not using a heated bed because I couldn't find 100mm diameter heatbeds, the smallest I found was 160/170 or so. Actually, I found one on ebay but it was ridiculously expensive and I'm pushing my budget as it is at the moment. I'm also building a CNC at the same time to mill the bed for this printer and just cause I've wanted to build one for ages for projects.

  3. #13
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    Jul 2017
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    Out of curiosity, is anyone other than me interested in building this printer? If so I'll work on tidying up the source files for release and doing a BOM and assembly instructions, if not I wont waste my time. For those curious a complete scratch build of this printer would cost about $150 USD + some plastic of your choice. This is with some "bells and whistles" like a power switch for the PSU, the Mks Sbase (not the cheapest board around) and excessive quantities (like ordering 50-100 bolts/nuts when you need like, 20-30) of some things.

    If you cannibalize an old printer this goes down to like $30. The bulk of the cost here comes from the controller board and motors, which are probably half the cost if not more. The PSU also adds a fair bit to the cost. Other than the standard components of a 3D printer (hotend, control board, motors, extruder gear, PSU) this printer only uses nuts, bolts, washers, bearings and some fishing line. All of which are the same size to boot. For the record, the cost is more or less the same regardless of the size of printer you are building. If you do need to use larger hardware, the bump in cost is absolutely minimal, and M8 hardware will be suitable for anything 'desktop' sized. The only real difference in the cost will come from the filament you're using, but you'll only need 1 or 2 rolls depending on what size you're going for. If a 100x100 cylinder printer costs me $150, I expect a 300x300 to cost less than $200.

  4. #14
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    Update, V0.0 will have a 95x95 cylinder build volume. Due to unforeseen chamfering (which is totally necessary, I won't take any arguments) the base/frame of a 100x100mm printer is too large for the 150x150mm bed of my solidoodle 2 by about 3mm.

    I could break it up into parts and glue them, but I'm too lazy. I could use my prusa clone but it has no heated bed, I'm down to my last spool of PLA, and someone recently gave me a but load of ABS. I hate printing with the stuff to be honest, it gives me a raw throat when I'm around it even with the windows open but I can't say no to free.

    The chamfering was to break some sharp edges created by cutting away some of the base (to save print time and plastic), and made it look really awesome in my opinion compared to what I was originally planning.

    I'll upload the effector parts and base sometime soonish, might be in a bit over a week as I'm going down south with my partner to visit some of her relatives for a week.

  5. #15
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    Holy mother of a fillet. You never realize how bloody hard it is to fillet between a box with an arbitrary translation and rotation, and the cutout of a circle, until you try it. I spent literally an entire week trying to get this to work. All for one measly, cosmetic fillet. Alas it looked out of place un-filleted with all the other fillets I spent too much time on (none of them quite this long though).

    Anyways, base is DONE. Last time it was "done" I forgot to add motor mounts. The absolute last part to design (I swear), is a hotend mount for the effector. Should be easy, famous last words.

  6. #16
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    Scratch that, still have the drive gear/pulley and motor gear to do as well. Those should be quick.

  7. #17
    Technologist
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    Jul 2017
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    The design is done. I'm not entirely happy with it, mostly because I'm trying to make a small printer with big parts and it isn't working out.

    As of yet it is untested, but if anyone wants to try, I'll generate a set of stls for them. I stress this is at your own risk. While I've gone through it a lot of times to try and account for everything, it's no substitute for having actually tested it.

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