Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1

    Question First 3D Printer: Prusa MK3 or Creality CR-10s

    Hello all,

    I am trying to decide between ordering a CR-10S or waiting and getting the Prusa MK3 when it comes out.

    Primarily, I want to use the printer to make board game organizers. After that, I would be interesting in making miniatures (even if they aren't highly detailed) and other miscellaneous stuff just for fun. I put together a list of dimensions and most of the board games I own have boxes with at least one dimension that is 11.8", which means that the CR-10s would be able to do it in one piece, whereas with the MK3 I would have to print in pieces and glue them together. Beyond that though, it seems the the Prusa MK3 is a better printer overall (or at least that seems to be the perception, correct me if i'm wrong).

    I have a couple of questions that might help me figure out which one to go with, hopefully you guys can help advise.
    1. If i were to print things in multiple pieces with the MK3, how difficult is it to glue them together? Will it hold over time?
    2. Is there any noticeable difference in print quality between the CR-10 and the MK3 once they are both calibrated correctly?
    3. It seems that smaller nozzles will allow for higher levels of detail with prints (for miniatures). Are both printers capable of using smaller nozzles successfully?
    4. As i said, the community perception seems to be that the Prusa is a better overall printer. Why is this exactly? Are the print results better? Is it just easier to use? More features? Better parts?

    Any help is appreciated. I'm also open to other printer suggestions, if you think there are better options available for my needs.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Having assembled the Prusa i3 MK2s, I'm happy to suggest the MK3 with no reservations. It's clear to me from the review videos that the MK3 will be easier to assemble, should you choose the kit version. I recommend that you purchase the kit version, as it gives you a bit of education as well as saving a few dollars. The kit is shipped with everything necessary to assemble it and the instructions are superb.

    The calibration process has been improved from the MK2 to the MK3. It was the proverbial piece of cake originally, now it's that much better. The structure is more rigid and less prone to minor assembly errors. Having read the assembly instructions, I can say that if you can't put this kit together, you might not want to own a 3D printer.

    A starter instruction booklet was shipped with the MK2 and I expect the same for the MK3. It covers all aspects of tuning (minor stuff) as well as good 3D printing practices.

    The fit for parts printed on the MK2 was excellent. Since the MK3 is likely to provide improved accuracy in that respect, expect excellent results as well.

    Rigidity in a printer is important for quality printing. I have no experience or exposure with the Creality printer, but I think it's going to be difficult to find a printer with less flex than the genuine Prusa models.

    You asked about smaller nozzles. Small nozzles will require the aforementioned rigidity, plus precise motion control of the print nozzle assembly. You're likely to get that with the Prusa.

    With respect to the large print you require. Consider that you could angle the model from flat on the bed to 45° to enable it to fit in the build volume. If not, printing in pieces is a practical answer. The adhesion question can only be answered by the glue you select. Long cure epoxy will have greater strength than quick cure epoxy. Some superglue types may work, but they tend to be brittle over time. Any flex on a long part may cause separation. If you're printing in ABS (needs enclosure) you can acetone-weld the parts and get even stronger results.

    I had great fun assembling the Prusa i3 MK2s for the local public library and think you might find your money well spent.

  3. #3
    Thanks for taking the time to write a thorough and well thought out reply.

    I hadn't considered printing it at 45 degrees. That may be doable. I suppose another option would be to print some sort of joint between the two pieces to do most of the work, and then add some glue to lock it all together.

    I agree completely on the kit. I think it would be a fun and informative process to build it myself.. and i save a little money that way.

    Now you've got me leaning towards the MK3... unfortunately that means i'll have to wait until it's released.

  4. #4
    The MK3 is supposed to be released next month. They recently moved to a new office, so I imagine they have alot better production line than before. The CR10S is a CR10, but with two Z motors, a filament detect, and a power resume function. The MK3 has many more features, and costs about $150 more than the CR10S. The CR10S has a bigger build area, but I'm sure you can get better prints with faster printing time on the MK3, since the frame is smaller and more sturdy than the CR10S's aluminum extrusions. The MK3 has the dual-tooth bondtech, filament detect, dual Z motors, power resume, a authentic E3D v6 hot end, a amazing PEI coated spring steel bed surface, a temperature calibrated pinda probe, and low noise stepper trinamic drivers. It's really tough to compete with what prusa has designed, as you will have a tough time finding all those features in any printer, let alone modifying a CR10S.

    You are probably better off waiting the month on the MK3 preorder, and if you print alot, perhaps.. building a VORON would be more fun for you. CoreXY systems can do large prints easily and won't cost you a small fortune to assemble. However all VORON's are DIY, so you have to buy all the parts and follow the guides on github, and such... YMMV!

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts