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  1. #371
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Added 115mm spool for people with little printers :-)
    16 grams !
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2597201

  2. #372
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    So I'm on a speed kick. Loving this Surreal transparent pla.
    Currently still printing spools - I've got a LOT of samples from the last 2 tct shows - got it down to 1 hour 20 by running at 150mm/s and 0.3 layer height.

    So what with s3d adjustments, it's not actually printing that much faster. sooo, can I knock one of these out at 150 and 0.4mm ?
    That would make it around an hour.
    OR maybe 0.3 at 200mm/s !
    Hmm, hell why not lol
    (runs slicer)
    150 at 0.4 is a minute faster than 0.3 at 200.
    So we'll try that first :-)

    These things don't have to look nice or be smooth. Just work :-)
    Made the filament holes 4mm, so even with fast sloppy printing they're still large enough for a good fit.

  3. #373
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    So the question is, if you set the print speed to 200mms, what is the actual speed you are printing at, i.e. what does S3D show in their speed color chart. I found that at 150mms, very little was that fast, most was 100mms.

  4. #374
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well at 150 and 0.4mm the spools print fine (not pretty, but 100% functional) and in an hour and 6 minutes.
    Generally the actual print speed probably averages about half the maximum. For this particulay item, only the 2nd and third base layers are printed at maximum speed. The rest is all outline and given that it's all underhang and overhang - figure half speed is damn good. The little turbo nozzle for the fan setup is obviously doing a good job. Cooling those outward sloping layers at that resolution and print speed is not simple. Plus upped the print-temp to 215.

    But getting a thing 50mm high and 150mm diameter in an hour - is no mean feat :-)

    First mosfet arrived today. I have no clue if this is the £3 or the £6 one.
    Have to wait for the second one and see if there are any discernible differences.

    The cheaper one I'll fit to Alexa.

  5. #375
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    Adding a mosfet to Alexa , I'll be interested in that. Post some pictures as you do that. What mosfet did you get?

  6. #376
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    cheapest one off ebay and and one that was about standard cost.
    they both look exactly like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer....c100506.m3226

    We figure the BB's heatpad will draw around 27amps :-)
    Well I say 'we' - My mate dave, who is an electrician, worked it out and went: 'bloody hell that's going to pull 27 amps !'
    At which point I started to think running it through the motherboard probably wasn't that great an idea and recalled autowhiz's posts about ssr's (really mosfets) :-)

  7. #377
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    The mks sbase arrived a short while ago. Looks good. Huge (relatively speaking) heatsinks already in place on the stepper drivers, that's pretty unusual in itself. Standard lcd screen - well it was about £3 so why not.
    So need to find the info page for that now.

    Got the wheel spacing and test carriages sorted last night. The little white wheels are smooth as you like.
    I'm still surprised when i change a measurement by 0.05 of a mm and it makes a noticeable difference :-)
    I can actually just press fit the wheels and require a hammer to remove them.
    Adjust the diameter down by 0.05mm and they're an easy fit that would need screwing tight.

    I'll try both methods, the screw has really thin walled cylinders until the screw is inserted. So we'll see.
    Next up belt gripper, decide how wide to make the ball attachments which will determine the relative size of the effector - which is the next job. Still no clue how to fit this j6 round necked extruder.
    But with test carriages sliding up and down the strut like oiled silk - it just feels like a major step forward :-)

    Just downloaded the tevo little monster firmware, hee hee :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-24-2017 at 06:06 AM.

  8. #378
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Well damn that works :-)


    Self taps right down to the base of the column, locks the wheel in place, super tight :-)
    Going to try a 4 way now :-)

    And that's all you need. Correctly spaced wheel holders and a 3x16mm bolt.
    No washers, eccentric nuts, spacers - it ain't necessary :-)
    Made the holes 3.25mm - gives a perfect fit for a 3mm bolt. Really tight, but with room for the thread to cut without breaking the plastic. I'm quite pleased with myself :-)

    You get a hard plastic shell with a solid metal core and 7mm solid column for the first couple of mm to the base plate. That's strong.

    If you ever need to remove the carriage, just remove the bolts from one side and pop the wheels off. Shafts will be attached magnetically, so just pop off.

    Right walk dogs while the 4 way prints.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-24-2017 at 11:23 AM.

  9. #379
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    Its looking good. Little Monster.... Nice I like that machine. MKS Sbase board. You need the 32 bits for BB?

  10. #380
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    According to autowhiz, yes :-)
    Plus you can't run smoothieware without it and that does seem to be the way to go for delta's.

    Here's the 4 wheel test rig. I did think about maybe wimping out and using the standard 3 wheel setup. But this is absolutely rock solid, no movement in any direction but sliding. You can put a lot of vertical pressure on the flat side of the carriage as well, would work really well for the bed on an I3.
    He3d definitely got this right. 4 wheels is significantly more stable and solid than 3.


    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-24-2017 at 01:24 PM.

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