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  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    it'sa flat 4mm sheet that's just there to hold the cables off the ground.
    Strength isn't an issue. I could just have easily made the majority 2mm, and used a brim.
    I only used 4mm because that's the ideal thickness for the short bolts and strut nuts (that phrase just sounds so rude: 'strut nuts') to be easy to fit and get a real good grip without the end of the bolt touching the back of the channel. And I didn't think anything thinner would print like that.

    I've got two cartesian style printers and until I got this machine I thought they were pretty impressive. This delta blows them out of the water, both for speed and quality and build size.
    It's also a lot less complicated with fewer parts. So in the long run ought to be more reliable.
    And if something does go wrong, it's much easier to see what and why.

    I've clearly detailed all the issues I had and mods the kit needs.
    Which amount to not much.
    Would I buy another delta ?
    In a heart beat ! lol
    I'm also rethinking whether to make alexa larger: 3x 1 meter struts, 10metre roll of gt2 belt and some connectors to splice in longer cables. That would give me around a 2 foot build height. which with the 1.75m filament is realistically all you can expect the bowden setup to do, and I don't want to start buying 3mm filament alongside 1.75.
    My other thought is to buy another complete kit and the extra expansion parts and just build the larger machine from scratch.

    The other mod I did, which I'm not sure I've covered. I made a power cable with an inline switch - took about 5 minutes and £3 for the switch. Used an old computer power cable.
    One of the things this kit doesn't come with is an on/off switch.

    So I'd recommend you make your own.

    Now none of the extras and mods are difficult - but add it all together and I still think it puts this kit out of bounds for complete beginners.
    I will also detail how I level the heat bed at some point. The z probe is pretty much useless.
    You need a small phillips screwdriver and digital calipers.
    I've been mostly doing it by eye and experience, but I will write up a standardised method at some point. It's much much easier then playing with the z probe and messing about with numbers and plate tilt modelling.
    If you simply make the plate level and zero z in the centre, you don't need to bother with all the complicated and clever stuff.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-16-2017 at 03:27 PM.

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