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  1. #281
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    My Printer is back up and running and at the moment 1h and 22m into printing that leg again. To make it work I had to take the Y axis away from UART and run it in standalone. I have a bunch of stepper drivers. So I sorted out all the tmc2208 v3.0 stepper drivers I have. I actually have these prepped both ways. Some are standalone, some are UART. The way we quickly identify which are which is by flipping them over and looking at the small solder pads. Typically if there is no solder then the drivers are configured for standalone and UART or SPI required soldering jumpers across pads. In the below picture the Yellow arrows up top are pointing to the 2208 drivers configured for standalone and the bottom row has green arrows pointing to the soldered jumpers making the drivers ready for UART communications..



    With a pair of the correct standalone drivers selected I set the pot to 1.3v on each and put jumpers in ms1 & ms2. And made sure the dip switches for ms1 & ms2 were in the on position on the stepper driver expansion board. The one tmc2226 driver that was running the pair of steppers before was set in the firmware to 1.9v. Split in half that's 0.8 for each motor but now there is 0.5v more to each stepper and twice the surface area for cooling the driving circuit. I feel good about this and can't wait for the next 12 hours to pass to see if it makes it further than the last time. My electrical center is getting busy. I might have to redesign all this at some point. Or just upgrade that board to something with more stepper motor sockets..



    At this point I am so happy I am finishing up building a coreXY. Oh I can't wait to finish it.

  2. #282
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    why are you using such dense infill ?

    If you use triagular infill and more walls/outlines you could cut the weight of the drastically and still keep them as strong.

    the tringular infill is better at lateral stress than the honeycomg and also prints faster.

    And again - delta - never any weight issues, no matter what you print.
    Only three stepper motors to deal with. For larger machines - just use bigger steppers, never any need to double up.
    One of the biggest deltas I've seen - about 10 feet by about 5 - was only using nema 23's and nothing special for belts. Looked like 6mm but was probably 10.
    We were impresessed at just how basic it was.
    https://3dprintboard.com/attachment....4&d=1538399634
    https://3dprintboard.com/attachment....5&d=1538399716


    As long as you measure accurately - even a home made delta is pretty easy to setup.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-01-2021 at 10:03 AM.

  3. #283
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    Well because it has to hold up a heavy printer that is gonna shake about. It is only 10% infill. But 3 perimeters and 3 solid top and bottom layers. And printed with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer heights. And out of PETG of course. These legs need to be heavy and robust so the printer that sits atop them will be stable. I got the first one to finish. It is not perfect and it will be one of the back legs. But it is finished and good enough to be on the rig. In the end aside from the dual stepper drivers and the extra current to each motor I had to drop the acceleration down from 3000 to 1500 and change the JD value from 0.013 to 0.022. I did this in Marlin and wrote the new firmware to the SKR 1.4 turbo. There is a link to a nice math equation to help figure out the right JD value from known AJ and acceleration values. Something like D = 0.4 * AJ * AJ / acceleration. So now I am running that. To get the one leg I have finished I kept slowing down the print speed as the height built. All the way down to 70%. But it finished. 1 - 1.5 spools of filament. I have to weigh it but it should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 3lbs if not just a tad under. It is big and gonna pick my TronXY up off the ground..



    The last legs I had made stuck out 10mm past the extrusion on all sides. Ultimately this grew the overall dimensions of my printer by 20mm on each axis. This printer's frame is a bit wider than it is deep and so my redesigned legs are flush with the extrusion on the front and rear sides of the frame. Just so this machine will retain the ability to go in and out of doorways. The big hole in the middle of where the extrusion will sit is for access to the bolts that hold the Z smooth rods in place without disassembly of the legs..



    And there is even a hole on the bottom of my legs to screw in the original height adjustable TronXY rubber feet..



    The next leg is printing out now. More filament is on it's way. Hopefully I will be updating my coreXY thread soon.

  4. #284
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    It is really turning out to be quite the mission getting these legs printed out. Aside from skipping steps with enough weight on the moving bed I have also been having these random filament jams at my expensive top end DD bondtech BMG/slice engineering Mosquito setup with the big 0.6mm nozzle. These jams are always easily cleared. I have to pull the filament out, I always cut back a length of filament and re insert and it goes without a problem. And then I had this jam and now I understand it is the dirt cheap ebay filament I am using..



    I can not begin to describe my frustration with this as I am committed to using this specific filament at this point. Or start re-printing everything again. So I am applying the smart filament sensor to 'Big Red' and i needed to flash the latest firmware to my BTT tft35 v3.0. The new firmware has a cool new look to it..



    The smart filament sensor should detect the jams and at least give me a chance or hope to finish this project. My gosh I have never had such a time trying to print something. Big warning to any and all reading this. The ebay ad I bought from did not specify any kind of tolerance to the filament. So not only do I not have a leg to stand on for a return but honestly I got what I deserved for not specifically looking for that tolerance and seeing what it claims. Bad Autowiz!!

  5. #285
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    I actually designed a simple filament sensor that will trigger on oversized filament (or kinked ends of filament as commonly found one sun spools). May be worth a shot if the smart filament sensor doesn’t catch them in time.
    https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints...resence-sensor

  6. #286
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    Pretty cool. You need to update your design to include an encoder wheel spun by the moving filament and a sensor that can read pulses from said encoder wheel so that if the filament jams on the other side of your sensor it will still trigger. The 'smart' filament sensor is big and bulky and has 3 wheels where it could surely survive with 2 so there is definitely room for improvement. Go rework your idea into something on par with the day, kid. Like one of these: Filament sensor - Collections - gordonmuvesz - Thingiverse

    Show me something that can see the filament moving and when it stops and is smaller and lighter than the smart filament sensor and I might be impressed. But so far as I know nobody in this industry has been impressed with them microswitches for a while now. But a hall effect sensor that can generate pulses every x amount of filament travel, now that is something to behold in the realm of filament runout detection. Wouldn't you agree?

  7. #287
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    The way to do that would be to adapt something like the Pat9125 from Prusa. The code already exists, and you don't need an encoder wheel. Just place a bearing against the filament and read the bearing directly (Don't try and read the filament directly though, that doesn't work well).

    E.g.: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints...t-mk3-filament

    I thought about doing that again, but I don't get jams in the nozzle often enough to care. Not too sure what Marlin's support for the Pat9125 is either.

    The issue with these is generally the detection length. The few millimeters required to detect the stoppage is also often enough to cause problems, especially when separated by a decent length bowden/filament feed tube.

  8. #288
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    So that issue is more for you guys with the little nozzles and tiny layer heights. With the big 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle diameters and the thick 0.4-0.6mm layer heights let me tell you that 1.75mm diameter filament moves pretty darn fast in relation to the extruder sliding around on X and Y.

    On the filament side there is 7mm worth of filament travel required to trigger a pulse.

    I guess if we were printing something small enough and at like <1mm layer height we might even get into whole layers before a pulse gets missed. But I'd say overall the BTT sensor has pretty good resolution..


  9. #289
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    I am so happy with the new look on this tft firmware update. Really..


  10. #290
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    It is entirely too busy on the rear of this printer. I just received the BTT UPS 24v v1.0. This device is a small board with a bunch of capacitors on it and upon loosing power this will store enough energy and send a signal to lift Z so when I resume after power failure the print will not be melted. I still have a real battery backup UPS (600watt) but this is an extra layer of protection for them long prints. Anyways I have no idea where I am gonna mount this. My electrical is real busy. It was always busy..



    But now it is real busy and there is not a lot of space left to keep adding small boards..



    So with 7 stepper motors being used on this printer I actually have a genuine need for the BTT Octopus v1.1. No more splitters or expansion boards. UART communication for all axes. And a 180mhz processor to boot. We now wait on shipping. The Octopus is awesome for many of reasons besides 8 stepper drivers supported. It also supports 6 pwm controlled fans that all have their own jumpers to tie them to 5v, 12v, or 24v power. This board looks awesome by the specs. Seriously. And I can not wait to get it. I bought mine from ebay where I got free shipping but here is a link to the board from Biqu with all the details: BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 – Biqu Equipment

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