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  1. #321
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    what software do you use to edit and compile marlin ?

    Also to whet your appetite, this is the basic frame for a 350x1000 delta that i will eventually make, probably. lol

    I need to get some more base struts cut and threaded as i kept breaking the thread cutters.
    but the main reason I haven't finished it is that I have nowhere to put it.
    Plus no actual reason to finish it other than: 'because'.

  2. #322
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    VS Code. I am trying to get through this but having many problems. But not what you might think. I am figuring out how to get this setup and debugging ok. I just keep finding more things I want to get up an running. Like for example I see Dual Z auto align. And don't you know I am configured for it without touching my printer. I have separate Z stepper motors with no belt going into separate Z stepper drivers and a BL Touch. All I have to do is get the firmware configured for it and I never have to check that again. So it's moving along but I am still struggling with the mission creep.

    That will make a huge Delta. And I think that would be a better way to go than the Tevo Little Monster. You need to finish that. Reaching your own goals in a project can be very rewarding. You should make a giant delta thread and update it regularly buddy.

  3. #323
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol the htread is there.
    But life moves on and I'm hoping that what I;ll need in the near future is another machine that's shit hot at printing tpu.

    So currently considering looking for another second hand sapphire pro, I can then give the klic-n-print to my mate, who has a massive house no kids and only 1 dog. So lots more room than me.
    But with luck I'll be needing another dedcated tpu printer soon.

    goals, yeah - I'm not big on goals.
    I mean I've done a whole bunch of stuff in the slinging world that nobody else in the world has done. But that's more because I'll always say yes to anything interesting and make the effort to go places.

    But I am notorious for starting something with massive enthusiams and then once Ive got to the point where I know I can finish, stopping and starting something else.

    One of these days I'll come back to the delta, i figure a week dedicated to it and I could get it finished.
    At the moment I have no real use for an enormous printer and lots of use for another fast tpu printer.
    I mean I'd still have nowhere to put the delta...


    Vs code eh ?
    Okay I'll have a look at that. Anything has to be better than ide !

  4. #324
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    Link me to the thread or bump it to the front of the line. I don't see it and would absolutely love to.

    It is good to know I am not the only one with that problem. But a delta that big is a worthwhile struggle.

    Making progress with Marlin. Very slow progress, but progress. Here are some early screenshots..



    If you look closely behind the screen you can see where I mounted the BTT 24v UPS. This guy: BTT UPS 24V V1.0 Resume Printing While Power Off Module – Biqu Equipment
    This part is cheap. So much cheaper than an actual uninterruptable power supply/ battery backup. And this method doesn't care how long the power is out. All of my printers have this now..



    The only thing about this capacitor bank is that it takes a while for the printer to power down after turned off and then it powers down slowly as the voltage drops and I just really don't like the way it does that. So what I have done is I am using a DPST power switch. 1 circuit is breaking the line in from the wall(black). The other circuit is breaking the power connection to the UPS. This way when I shut off the switch the power supply shuts down and the ups gets disconnected simultaneously and the printer functions as normal with the UPS installed. But if the wall power goes away it is connected and ready to do its job. I feel this way is safer for the mainboard. There is a red led light on the BTT UPS that stays on when it is charged and since the load gets disconnected with the switch after the printer is turned off this light stays on for a good while. I never found good instructions on doing this from BTT or Youtube. But to just leave this connected to the mainboard really makes cycling the power a royal PITA.

  5. #325
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    I am making progress. So far I have the fans all working as they should. I have done good with the 4 fans. That is 1 fan to cool each hotend with each fan tied to its own temp sensor and set to come on over 50c so the fans don't run while the printer is idle. I have verified this function by turning on the heaters and raising each extruder temp above 50c and the fan came on. As it dropped below 50c the fans turned off and for the correct extruder.

    As for the part cooling fans. I asked what to do about setting up a second part cooling fan in the 3d printing multicolor and multimaterial facebook group and someone answered me that I should tie the two part cooling fans together because the slicer wouldn't know what to do with separate cooling fans anyways. Which made sense and I even found a place under configuration adv.h tab to tie a second fan pin to the part cooling fan pin which I did so each fan has its own driver just to be all correct and because I have so many fan headers to play with on this board. I verified the part cooling fan by commanding the fan on from the touchscreen. When I do, both part cooling fans come on together.

    I have got each stepper motor wired right, assigned to the right stepper driver, moving in the right direction and while I still have to figure out dual Z auto align and also why my BL Touch is not responding I am almost homing. Almost..

    My Custom Built IDEX printer homing - YouTube

  6. #326
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    Oh man. I am almost done with the firmware and ready for the slicer. I have no idea what Slicer I want to use for this BTW. I am guessing Prusaslicer? But I would rather use S3D. But not familiar at all with how I would go about doing that. Anyways. I am getting there. I copied over my kp,ki,and kd values from the last firmware with the last mainboard but I need to pid autotune all 3 heaters. I think that is as far as I can go until i get a test print to check the two carriages are sync'd up in printing. Almost there. Here is a video on the Dual Z Auto Align in action..

    IDEX Dual Z Auto Align - YouTube

  7. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoWiz View Post
    VS Code. I am trying to get through this but having many problems. But not what you might think. I am figuring out how to get this setup and debugging ok. I just keep finding more things I want to get up an running. Like for example I see Dual Z auto align. And don't you know I am configured for it without touching my printer. I have separate Z stepper motors with no belt going into separate Z stepper drivers and a BL Touch. All I have to do is get the firmware configured for it and I never have to check that again. So it's moving along but I am still struggling with the mission creep.

    That will make a huge Delta. And I think that would be a better way to go than the Tevo Little Monster. You need to finish that. Reaching your own goals in a project can be very rewarding. You should make a giant delta thread and update it regularly buddy.
    Z-auto align is a very nice feature. It works very well with UBL too.

    Another thing in Marlin you might like is the ability to speed things up a little bit (change filament, print, etc) by setting the temp hysteresis and window.
    #define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 3 // (seconds) Time to wait for hotend to "settle" in M109
    #define TEMP_WINDOW 5 // (°C) Temperature proximity for the "temperature reached" timer
    #define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 5 // (°C) Temperature proximity considered "close enough" to the target

    The above means that rather than the printer settling on 215, following a M109 S215, it will start the next command at 210. As usually the next command is a change filament, or a prime line, the temperature can handle being a bit wonky at the start. By the time the print itself begins, the temperature will be stable.

  8. #328
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    Ya I learned that lesson on way out calibrations. I always change them settings just up front just so I can get through a PID autotune without errors or taking forever. That is good advice, thou. However I could really use a hand with getting a slicer up and going. I believe I am ready for my first print but have nothing to slice with. I have S3D but have not seen it to be friendly to the multi material printing.

    I am trying to configure Prusa Slicer but I do not see where I can set different temps for each extruder. And I have absolutely no idea what start, end, or toolchange gcode should look like for the IDEX. Or if I even need any of that. I think I do. I mean one carriage has to home before the other comes out to play and it needs to home before the first comes back out. Marlin doesn't handle all that by itself does it?

    I need Spegelius. Where is that multi material genius. He will surely know how to configure what slicer for this.
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 07-28-2021 at 08:08 PM.

  9. #329
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    Got it. I'm using Cura. Got the extruder offsets dialed in real nice, too..



    Still got a bunch of tweaking to do with the slicer settings to get to a good print. But the IDEX lives.

  10. #330
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    not sure how good s3d would be with idex.
    I never got it to do dual extrusion - but it has been a long time since I tried.

    The bbd (big bastard delta) is kind of interposed throughout my original delta thread
    https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....a-kit-)/page35
    it's all in there somewhere.
    I ran across a post from 4 years ago about how bloody awful some yellow filament was to print with.
    oddly I've been using it the last couple of days to make some hollow discs for clay inserts for a new designed disc sling I just invented.
    And i was right - it's horrible filament alright lol
    But as these discs are mainly going to be sling and never see again - I don't really care lol

    The idea is the discs are held upright and actually roll out of the pouch rather than tumble every which way, which they do in a normal sling pouch.
    Just had a few throws with the dogs - works really well :-)

    Tell you what I'll set up a new idex printer and see what s3d does.

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