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  1. #331
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    That's pretty cool. What filament did you print that sling with? And I would really appreciate it if you did setup an IDEX and figure out a good slicer option. All the problems I am now having are slicer related and getting the nozzle to go wipe on the tower before going to the print and stopping Z lift when the nozzles change so the shell I am building around the print can actually wipe the nozzle.

    Do it and we will compare prints again but with our IDEX rigs.

  2. #332
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    So the first prints with the IDEX aren't that great. They should be. They would be if I was using a better slicer I feel. I tell Cura to wipe the nozzle on the prime tower and the unused nozzle, too. But when the nozzles switch 2 things happen. The Z lifts. And the incoming nozzle goes to where the other nozzle left first. And then it goes over to the prime tower to wipe. And because of the Z lift that i can not find a way to get rid of ATM even building a shell around the object doesn't help wipe what dripped while the nozzle idled. And this is what I get..



    It's not bad and I am happy with it. I also printed the 3 color lizard with the same results..



    What matters is it gets through a print. Both smart filament sensors work correctly with the right extruder. All the fans are doing the right thing. Except for the part cooling fan. Again with the slicer. I am used to the fan coming on and turning off at times but with Cura now the fan comes on 100% at the start of layer 2 and just stays on forever. But I got most everything on the printer and firmware side down. The Dual Z auto align is a hit. Had no troubles at all and it even tells me how far off the 2 sides are from each other. I have the distances / offsets of the 2 extruders dialed in pretty well also..



    So we definitely need to figure out a better slicer option or at least find a more capable mind to set up cura for this effort. I am also going to build a physical nozzle wiper and mount it just before where each carriage parks and hang it from the gantry so both nozzles will be wiped every time they come out of the park position. I have ordered a silicone mat to cut up and use for the wiper. I already made one before when I had the MMU2S setup. I only need a small piece and i can make 2. One for each side. Here is a picture of the one I made. This picture came from page 26 of this thread..



    The new mat should be here in a few days and I will get back to funnin' around with the dual color printing then. In the meantime it looks like I am all set to finally get back to trying to print out them huge 220mm tall legs for the TronXY build..


  3. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoWiz View Post
    Ya I learned that lesson on way out calibrations. I always change them settings just up front just so I can get through a PID autotune without errors or taking forever. That is good advice, thou. However I could really use a hand with getting a slicer up and going. I believe I am ready for my first print but have nothing to slice with. I have S3D but have not seen it to be friendly to the multi material printing.

    I am trying to configure Prusa Slicer but I do not see where I can set different temps for each extruder. And I have absolutely no idea what start, end, or toolchange gcode should look like for the IDEX. Or if I even need any of that. I think I do. I mean one carriage has to home before the other comes out to play and it needs to home before the first comes back out. Marlin doesn't handle all that by itself does it?

    I need Spegelius. Where is that multi material genius. He will surely know how to configure what slicer for this.
    Can't help with Cura. Haven't used it in ages, but under Prusaslicer, you:
    Set the number of extruders under the printer settings -> general screen
    Probably leave "single extruder multimaterial" off.
    Use the custom Gcode section to park/clean/prep each extruder (Tool change Gcode). There's parameters to distinguish between the extruders.

  4. #334
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    Man these things take so long to print. But they have to support weight. And I do not ever want to have to change them. Soooo. This is printing with a 0.6mm nozzle and at 0.4mm layer heights. The thicker the filament we print with the stronger the part we land with. I am about to be half way done with this daunting task. And I have to mirror my design in the slicer for the next 2 prints..



    Burning through that PETG. This is California Filaments I am using sourced from Ebay, if anybody is curious. It is not a perfect filament but it is cheap. Translucent Yellow color. Their yellow is different from most others and looks more of a Gold, TBH.

  5. #335
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    Well ok I got my silicone mat to cut up for the nozzle wiper and I drew up this awesome double wiper that will be a part of the two front outer gantry mounts..



    As soon as the first one is done printing we will mirror it and print out the other side. Then I will cut a few 20x15mm pieces of that mat out for each side and get it all mounted up. The only b*tch is the red silicone pad looks a lot more brown then red. Oh well. The previous mat I used was closer to pink than red so w/e. I can not wait to reprint the lizard with the wipers on. Each side is gonna take 3hrs to print.

  6. #336
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    The nozzle wipers are a hit and I have my first real successful multi colored print..



    It might look better in solid colors but this lizard is special. It is the translucent PETG filaments I have used to make my red IDEX and this yellow TronXY. From here I just need to figure out how to make things for multi material printing. One step at a time.


  7. #337
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    have to admit i was pretty impressed with the first lizard.
    The second one looks even better.

    As far as the idex slaicer setup goes - I'd have started with a profile from an existing i3 idex machine.
    You should be able to just get them from the manufacturers websites.
    I'd start with the Tenlog machines.
    Very similiar spec to yours - well you know without the platimum bolts and gold plated linear rails ;-)

    But, Nice one !

    Self built IDEX is on another level !

    So (snigger snigger) how about a corexy idex belt printer......
    I'll let you think on that one while you're working out how to make an idex delta (or is that too cruel lol)

    But, yep - well impressed !

    the trick now is to see if you can get it to run without the wipe towers - that's my biggest issue with conventional dual extrusion.
    Takes 3 times as long and uses twice as much filament.
    It's why i just haven't bothered with it over the years -despite always having at least one dual extruder machine on the desk.

    On an entirely different tact: a 'Honda' is either the spanish or catalan word for 'sling'. The other spanish or catalan word is 'Foner'. Foner is both sling and slinger. wheras Honda is sling and hondero is a slinger. m
    The problem is that on the balearic islands they speak both spanish and catalan and even my Austrian linguist mate who speaks at least 5 languages, says he struggles with the catalan.

    The disc slings are made from tpu - my favourite filament. the e-da stuff I've been using recently is seriously good.
    Did an extensive field test last week. And while i had some slings with a vertical channel the width of the discs I was using - the geneeral purpose pyramid version actually worked better !

    The tpu is fantastic stuff as it can be really floppy and fairly rigid in the same print.
    Printed with two 0.25mm layers the 0.5mm thick strip is totally floppy and unbreakable by humans.
    go up to 2mm thick and it's fairly stiff.
    The pyramids are all hollow, but because of the design, really rigid.

    Now obviously with an idex setup you could mix tpu with pla or pet-g for the ultimate in living and built in hinges.
    Tpu is just really cool stuff.
    I mean it's not fast.
    My standard printing setup on saffy is: 0.25 layer height, 30mm/s speed, 235c temp - and 100% speed on everything. That's one redeeming factor, when you find the right speed and layer height, you can run everything at full speed.
    And the bed is unheated.
    I've never found anything it doesn't stick to and never needed to ever heat a build surface :-)

    It's just fun stuff to play with and the slinging applications are pretty cool as well.

    What do you design all your bits in ? is that fusion 360 ?
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-08-2021 at 07:52 AM.

  8. #338
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    OK you blew my mind with the delta IDEX. Is that even possible? I mean with separate carriages? Can't be. Can it? I will make this commitment right here and now buddy. IF I get my 3 color mixing printer figured out. Despite how rigid it is I absolutely hate the way it looks. So if I find the success in my Geeetech 3 in 1 mixing hotend, I will use that and just transfer over that hotend and get 3 tiny dual drive orbiter extruders to make it as close to a DD 3 color mixing delta as humanly possible. And I will do it with 3 smart filament sensors. Either a custom built frame or a minimum size of the Tevo little monster. God I wish I could find funding or a way to pay for my life so I could just play here.

    I need help with getting the printer to behave as I want. I think this is all in the slicer. When the tool change happens the extruder in use raises a bit and shoots over to home and then the extruder to be used comes out to the exact place where the last extruder was. Once it is here it will wait for a sec in this spot on the print until the nozzle temp settles which deforms the print a little, and then it will go over to the wipe tower before coming back to start printing. I need to make some changes to this order. And if I could figure out how to just extrude a few mm of filament before each extruder comes out of park and runs over the wiper than no I don't need a prime tower.

    I am still using Autodesk 123d design. Please don't shame me.

    This globe is printed with PETG. Both nozzles are 0.6mm and I sliced it at 0.4mm layer height. The prime tower that Cura builds is but one line wall thickness and the PETG needs to print slowly and I think the speed is a bit high on the prime tower printing as it fell over and let go from the bed. Otherwise I would have one sweet globe right now..


  9. #339
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I'll have ago at setting up an idex printer on simplify3d.

    But I ws thinking about the actual sequence I;d want last night.
    To start with you need to maintain the temp on the nozzle.
    So no cooling when idle - it doesn'.t need to.

    So what i came up with was:
    1) at end of print section, retract 7-8mm - or whatever it takes to remove it from the nozzle completely and into the heat break. Keep temps on full.
    2) before moving head back to print, extrude the 7-8mm (whatever it was) plus 1mm. Then move the head across the wiper and then immediately do a standard length retraction.
    I figure that way it should reach the print in the same situation as though it's just done a standard retraction, move and print start.

    I pretty much always preheat stuff before starting to print. and as i sometimes (lol) lack organisation - that can 'occasionally' be for hours. Never noticed any issues.
    hell saffy's currently waiting for me toi change from pla to tpu - so she's sitting ther ate 235 with pla in the nozzle. I think. #
    lol

    But yeah i reckon with the right sequence of retractions and nozzle wipes you really shouldn't need a purge tower at all.

    And while the idea delta was a joke.
    I have also been thinking about how to do it.

    So far I've come up with two possibles.
    1 involves two stationary upright towers and a bed that moves between the two.
    The other involves two towers set at a fairly steep angle with longer rods than normal so you move a head over the bed and then out of the way while the other one prints.

    But a multi nozzle is probably a better idea. lol
    There are a few of those around.

    The other option might be to use morotised nozzles. So a conventional multi nozzle extrusion setup, but with the nozzles moving up and out of the way when not in use.
    I'm also pretty sure I read of a multi in one out setup that used little valves to shut off the filament feed that wasn;t being used.
    That would eliminate the filament bleeding into each other with a standard multi in 1 out setup.

    Now as far as you becoming a full time 3d print guru - youtube :-)

    Some of those muppets on youtube that are actually making enough money to live on, know exactly bugger all !

    It's got to be worth a shot !

    The other option would be what I've mentioned before - bespoke built 3d printers for the sort of people who will buy apple products and pay thousands of dollars for a graphics card.

    Damn sure you could make that work.

    You've got all the enrgy and enthusiasm that i lack :-)
    Or to put it in olympic year terms. I tend to be a sprinter and have short bursts of inspiration and then lose interest fairly quickly.
    But you're a marathon runner and can ,maintain the enthusiams for much longer periods od time :-)

    If you ever actually finished the big machine and started actually making custom parts for pewrformance cars - that right there is a serious revenue stream - both as direct part sales and to sell similiar machines to all the other performance shops there are in the us.

    Most business are looking - though they don't know it - for machines for very specific tasks. And all you can buy, really are general purpose printers that need modding to do a specific job.

    You can absolutely do that !

    And while you're doing it - make videos on youtube.
    I got faith in you :-)

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