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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Edmonton AB, Canada
    Hey that turned out not half bad Looks like i'm gonna have to re-tackle this. I tried some filler putty on my original print, but it was going to require lots of work to finish, and the arm was all messed up so since then i've kinda walked away from this one. but There are still a few things I can think of that might help.

    I've thought about running a second print on the bed next to it, so that each layer of the groot head has all the time in the world to cool and solidify, while it prints something else. Not sure if this will work.

    the supports I used for the one I printed were all the way around the head, so looks like I can get away with less, but i think i'm putting too much heat in one spot.

    Is it bad for layer adhesion to be cooled immediately out of the nozzle? i can increase the airflow over my work piece but not sure if that will be detrimental. Or is it better to cool shortly after extrusion?

  2. #12
    Thanks, Prusa i3 MK2 does a fairly good job, I'm very pleased with the printer. With PLA, cooling is required if you want good details. I don't know how much cooling affects layer adhesion, but I've been printing structural parts with PLA and cooling always enabled (see here and I haven't seen any problems with layer adhesion.
    For other materials, it depends. ABS prints definitely with NO cooling (maybe for very fast layers and bridging), PETG only for fast layers and if you want the best details.

    Also I'd say that when printing stuff like Groot, which don't really require the best possible toughness, go with the settings that produce the best surface quality; lower nozzle temp (~190C nozzle) and part cooling. The other end is where the best layer adhesion is required, like the models in here: I've printed the Spitfire as it was bundled with the Prusa and the pre-sliced files have settings these settings for PLA: 220-230 C nozzle temp, NO part cooling.

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