I really need some help!

[ntzntz]

Hi.
I own a Sharebot NG (Single extruder head)
I got it second hand at a good price. After that i taken the printer to a 3d printer service where she was checked / some parts changed / calibrated and finally arrived at my house.
But now the problems :
I have some issues with the prints (see in imgur album at the end) The speed is set at 45 (Simplify3D 2700mm/min = 45) Also in printer quick settings 45%)
That is not the only software i used to print them but on all i had the same print settings. I have also added all the Simplify3D settings maybe someone figure out what is the issue or why.
The printer it`s on a big shelf very hard to move (So the printer was not moved during print or the shelf moves when the printer prints)
http://imgur.com/a/u5b0l (Settings on Simplify3d)
http://imgur.com/a/ghmue (Picture with failed prints)
Thanks in advance

[curious aardvark]

prints are actually not that bad.
Just look like they're missing cooling and printed a little too hot.

The only things that stand out are the fan setting. For pla you need that on 100% all the time.
And drop the printing temp to 200 and work your way up to 210. Each colour and make of pla has it's own sweet spot.
I find most pla prints best between those two temps. My default settings for pla are 210 and 65mm/s print speed.
But different printers will perform differently - so your ideal settings will most likely be different to mine.

And the first layer setting is weird. why use 150% height ?
I've always had that at 100.
Not really sure why people change it.

Also first layer speed - drop that down to 10-20%. the slower, the better it will stick. And you can lose the brim once it's sticking better.

But on the whole, it's not bad - just needs a little tweaking :-)

3d printing is a delicate balance between how well the plastic flows and how fast it sets. It needs to flow easily to get precision, but then it needs to set as quickly as possible to avoid slumpage and be hard for the next layer. But then it needs to be as hot as possible for proper layer adhesion.
But if it's too hot it can deform the previous layer as well as not set properly itself.
And the difference between a great print and a decent print can be as little as a few degrees or a slightly different print speed.

The good news is that once you've got the ideal settings for a particular plastic - it should work the same every time, but it can take a bit of tweaking before you hit on those settings :-)
All your other settings look fine to me and similiar to what i use.

[ntzntz]

And what about layer shifting. Or what is called that. What can i do about that. I saw that the speed it`s the main issue.
Also a question that i do not get why.
All programs that i tried put the object i want to print in middle. On every program i set up the bed size as it says in manual. But when the print starts it`s printing on the side from the middle. Why? And how can i fix that.

[printbus]

Yeah, printing benchy will likely teach you a lot about print thermal management.

As to the layer shifting - you've just got to look at anything involved in moving in the axis of the slip. Could be motor skipping, could be acceleration is too high. I think most of the time it ends up being mechanical - things like loose pulleys on motor shafts, belt too loose, something binding up more than it should.

[curious aardvark]

I've never had layer shifts - so can't help there. My prinbeds only go up and down - so maybe that's why.

The usual reason for things not printing central is because you haven't told simplify3d where the middle of your plate is.
If you look at this page of settings:


The origin offsets for the x and y axis are currently set to 0 - which is the far corner of the build plate. so that's where it will start printing.
change it to: 115 for the x-axis and 97.5 for the y axis.
Essentially the centre of the plate is exactly half the length and width. :-)
As your build plate doesn't go up and down - leave the z axis origin at 0.

[ntzntz]

I have put what you told me here where i draw with the pencil and the printer started to print far right of the printbed and out of the print bed way off.. so something is really wrong ?
PFfeKvC.jpg
i removed the settings for the moment until you have an idea why.

[pochrist]

I'm guessing the far right (if i compare it to mine) is the X-axis there is a box on the Gcode page you are referring to that says "Flip build Table Axis" I would check off the box for the "X" axis. If what i suspect is happening your printer by flipping the "X" axis it should reverse what you are experiencing. I'm still new to S3D and 3D printing in general, but had similar issues when I migrated over to S3D and have years of experience in Drafting in and X, Y, Z coordinate system, so this part is easy for me (if I understand what your problem seems to be)

[ntzntz]

So problems so far and i am getting overwhelmed whit this.
After an almost perfect print like 98% perfect i shutdown the print and covered it also put the spool with silica gel in the bag.
After two days this happens :
1. The printer started to act strange even nothing was changed moved or setup.
2. Anything i tried to print after that got really bad results like :
Not sticking to the build plate (Even if i used the same hairspray and same temps on both head and bed)
Printer head mid print went in a weird position knocking the clamps from the side of the glass that is on the hotbed) That happen when i pressed stop print.
3.Not accepting the right speed even if i everything was the same like before (Started to go faster for no reason ) even it was setup for 40mm or 2400mm in any software i tried to put the speed again (Cura,Simplify,Slic3r) I had to put in the gcode forced 80% speed. That option worked only one time.
4. Any print started not to stick to hotbed also the extruder started to extrude filament in weird wobbly way not straight. (like waves somehow) even the skirt out layer was set to two lines did only one or not completing one because was not a perfect end to end placing of filament like the nozzle is clogged or something)
5. Also the biggest problem from the beginning was that i could not connect to the 3d printer in any way beside the sdcard slot
I tried several cables and several hubs also two different pc (laptop w7 and pc win10) i tried 3 different cables with extension whiteout one and also every usb port i had on pc/laptop but i still get usb not recognized and i cannot connect to the printer by cable in any way (Also what i observed by mistake is that the end of the cable the usb side has electricity on the end) Like the motherboard of the 3d printer is not grounded or is getting extra juice from wall or something.
This problem i have it from the beginning when i bring the 3d printer home (because at the 3d printer service shop the connection went smooth and connected by cable without a problem.

[pochrist]

OK just so we know this going in I'm new to 3D printing as well S3D, so I'm going to approach this from an IT perspective and deal with the Software and Hardware.

1) The Voltage (ie. Electricity) on the USB cable shouldn't be a red flag most devices have a 5 volt charge +/- so that the computer will detect it when its connected.

2) I would avoid connecting the printer via a USB Hub or any other in-line device, just plug it directly to the printer - once you confirm it works then you can explore alternate options.

3) I checked your earlier posts but saw nothing specific in regards to installing drivers for your unit, this link:

https://www.sharebot.it/index.php/su...ot-ng/?lang=en

is from the Sharebot website and has profiles for your printer to be used with Simple 3D

I would 1st confirm I installed the drivers on your computer (also restart after the install - sometimes its required even if it doesn't prompt you too.) after you restart test your USB port with a USB flash drive for verification. Plug in you printer and turn it on (if its not on already) then look in Windows device manager to see if it shows an unknown device or something, if not then it should be installed ok. In S3D you should be able to use the Machine control panel to connect to the printer.

Note when I installed my printer (which is a Makerfarm Kit) I had to install the driver and identify which communication port is was using ("\\com3" is mine) once I did this the printer was detected just fine.

The strange behavior during prints could be in the gcode for the item you are printing, the stl could have errors or (if you never loaded the Profiles from Sharebot) the outputted gcode could be for a different printer. Simple stl models may not have the same problems as more complex stls.

Also if the heated bed is not working could be related to the gcode changing temps mid way through the print or not being turned to the correct temp or on at all.

Quick Recap: Make sure you have the drivers installed and the printer is detected in the S3D use Machine control panel (here you can play with the printer axis's and Nozzle and Bed temps) once you confirm its installed correctly you can play with the profiles and tweak for filaments.

Good Luck

[ntzntz]

I already installed the profiles for every program/slicer they had profile for.
Once again i am telling you that nothing was change from previous print 100% perfect print VS next print next day total failure and the print after that witch was something i already printed and worked really well now not even close.
I see the stats of the printer on the display and nothing is changing also the temps are steady both extruder / hot bed.
I also installed drivers but not the drivers are the issue.
Screenshot_12.jpg
I also updated my motherboard bios and installed all the USB related drivers from ASUS also the Chipset.
Nothing works (even with no hub straight connection i get the same issue)
This is not on a single pc/laptop (1 lap / 1 pc ) 2 different OS.
Tested all ports on both.