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  1. #31
    There is a link to Makerware 2.4 in the Flashforge forum. Get that. RepG is good for updating firmware, not much else.


  2. #32
    Technician Torby's Avatar
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    That's a pretty big haystack to find a needle in.

    Figured it out: Generate the gcode first. It seems to scan the gcode to make the s3g file.

  3. #33
    Technician Torby's Avatar
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    My second attempt. It came out a little bigger than I figured. This is the "Parametric Tardis" by "Gossamer." I set it for 75mm, and that's how high it made the main box, but there's about 15mm more for the top.

    DSCF1443s.jpg

    The layers seem to have warped and separated a bit.

    DSCF1448s.JPG

    It got very cold in the room while it was working. My apartment isn't exactly upscale and we had our first cold night here in NE Oklahoma. Perhaps the mod where you put covers around it should be the next project.

  4. #34
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    that's abs right ?
    no way you should ever get that with pla.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Torby View Post
    That's a pretty big haystack to find a needle in.
    Did you even look? Stickied on the first page!


  6. #36
    Technician Torby's Avatar
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    you mean the flashforge forum at 3dhubs.com?

  7. #37
    Technician Torby's Avatar
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    "no way you should ever get that with pla."

    Is that why pla is popular? Works better. These rolls are all abs. Printed the tardis smaller and it came out quite nicely. I'll snap some photos.


  8. #38
    Technician Torby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke View Post
    Did you even look? Stickied on the first page!
    Oh. The flashforge forum at this site. Duh... I was looking and looking and looking.

  9. #39
    Technician Torby's Avatar
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    "Did you even look? Stickied on the first page!"

    Got it. Tried it. Printing something now.

    Here's the little TARDIS. I'm rather pleased, though it's really hard to photograph. Now to paint it blue.

    TardisSmall.jpg
    Last edited by Torby; 12-09-2016 at 11:07 AM.

  10. #40
    ABS requires a heated build chamber. You can achieve this with a simple homemade hood and a (preferably see-through) cover for the front. Basically you need to block anything that can cause a draft. Then let the bed heat up to 95° for 10-15 minutes before starting the print to heat up the chamber. Fine tune this to suit your enviroment.

    Do not heat your HBP above 105°
    Slurry works best for ABS

    I personally that ABS gives a better part than PLA. At CA's recommendation I have been using PLA exclusively and the results are mixed. I really should sort out my cooling but that's a different story.


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