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  1. #1
    Technologist
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    May 2015
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    Which support material works best with Ninje-Flex?

    I am making a rubber gasket that will wrap around a piece of metal on 3 sides. Sort of a "u" shape laying on t side. Currently, the print will be a little stringy because of the overhang. I know ninja flex sticks well to everything but I think this gasket will come out better with support.

    What filament would you recommend to use with my new FFCP 2016? What I don't want to do is create a lot of work for myself by having to spend a lot of time cleaning out the gasket.

    Thank you for your input
    Bill

  2. #2
    I don't believe there is a support material for ninjaflex.

    If possible change the design to suit 3D print. Alternatively printthe U-shape as a strip and then bonding the ends.


  3. #3
    Technologist
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    Damn!!! I don't like that answer!! Problem is I just read that here is no good "glue" for Ninjaflex.
    Thank you Sebastian

  4. #4
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    I've used PVA with 0 separation layers and 100% dense top layer supports. The stuff peels right off, don't even need to soak in water to dissolve the PVA.




    The bottom piece shows the underside where the supports were peeled off.
    Last edited by jfkansas; 09-28-2016 at 08:21 PM.

  5. #5
    I didn't know about this. Been looking for a support for Ninjaflex myself. Mind sharing your settings?


  6. #6
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    Here is a factory file with all the settings used.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzdNSkRFBUkTa29Db3Fsc3ZFME0/view?usp=sharing

  7. #7
    Sorry but I don't have S3D


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke View Post
    Sorry but I don't have S3D
    Guess it is high time you get with the rest of the world then. :-)

    But really a lot of the settings I used I'm not sure is replicable in other slicers. Essentially I built a support cradle to print this item to keep it stable due to its shape. It couldn't be printed on end due to the middle section being much thinner.

    The important thing to know is even the ninjaflex at 235 and PVA at 195 is compatible. The PVA didn't permanently bond to the ninjaflex. It was actually the easiest support removal I have ever had. The ninjaflex did stick to the support PVA but it peeled off with very little effort.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    Guess it is high time you get with the rest of the world then. :-)
    Believe me, its on my list.

    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    The important thing to know is even the ninjaflex at 235 and PVA at 195 is compatible. The PVA didn't permanently bond to the ninjaflex. It was actually the easiest support removal I have ever had. The ninjaflex did stick to the support PVA but it peeled off with very little effort.
    That's the kind of thing I'm looking for. What about print feed? I assume you stuck with the lower of the two i.e. Ninjaflex? What about the print surface?


  10. #10
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    Those were ran at 60mm/s, but I wouldn't try that unless you run a specific PTFE lined hot end setup. That is stock PTFE lined FF thermal tube/hotblock, P3-d coated brass nozzle, PTFE Liner cut to be just .1mm too long so it compresses and fits tight. Chamfer the inside edge of the PTFE a little with a drill bit. I couldn't replicate this setup with a Similar microSwiss Nozzle or all metal conversion..

    Print surface is hard to tell since it will always have kind of stair stepping up the side of the rounded profile. I did raise the Object about 1mm off the build plate so the "cradle" was built fully underneath the ninjaflex. No ninjaflex ever touched the glass build plate.

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