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  1. #21
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    ahhh yes thats the cellular thing. here you go. this is a real popular item on thingiverse. believe it or not i dont think anyone prints it with support no matter what plastic they are using.


    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19104

  2. #22
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    I see, it's a lamp. No wonder I couldn't find it when I searched vases... Thanks.

    First print was rough and separating. When I lifted it off of the glass it unzipped the bottom layer like spooling line out of a box. I'm printing again at higher temp (245C) instead of (230C) to see if the layers stick better. I think I jumped to fast on the temp as it looks globby. I think I'll knock the temp back to 240C. I need to fine tune my retraction too. That's off. But, all in all, it's going OK. I just need to tweak. This stuff has no odor at all. I think I'm going to like it.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  3. #23
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    yeah rob once you get your setting right it will print great every time. it needs alot of retraction. print and temp settings are very similar to nylon. did you get clear or one of the opaque colors?

  4. #24
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    I actually got white. I have some uses in mind for my boat and white is the standard nautical plastic color.

    I printed an open vase thingy that's about 5cm tall. It's actually about 10cm tall but I stopped it as not to waste more plastic. Here are a few prints. As you can see, I have some tweaking to do. The 1st layer looks nice as the bottom is great. It's just globby and messy.

    Pet+_Print_001A_s.jpg Pet+_Print_001B_s.jpg Pet+_Print_001C_s.jpg
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  5. #25
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    yeah from what i can tell you have 2 things going on there. the main thing is with doing something tiny like that your going to get the part very heat soaked. each layer doesnt have enough cooling time. are you using your bed fan? you should use it same as with pla....atleast on small stuff like that. it looks like your pumping out alot of plastic, however this could just be that the model is too hot. nothing to do with the blobs but looks like that 1st layer could be printed just hair closer to the bed. i have found that the opaque colors, atleast the black needs more retraction that the clear stuff. i am running some black right now and here are my settings:

    retraction 4.40mm
    coasting distance 2.8mm
    temp 245. (this is a block style hot end, actual nozzle temp is 225)

    be sure to measure the filament and set that right. that could give you lots of blobbing due to over extrusion. i would try a more simple model first to atleast get the stuff extruding correctly then work on the tricky stuff. maybe start with some calibration objects. cubes, cylinders. there is tons of that stuff on thingi.

    i do know a thing or two about boats. #1, i hate them, #2 i was a marine mechanic for some years then worked for viking yacht co for quite a few more as both a service tech, engineer and about everything else at that place of course #1 is a result of #2
    Last edited by jimc; 04-05-2014 at 10:59 PM.

  6. #26
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Great feedback. Firstly, boats. I hate them and love them, but, love them more. I have become a marine mechanic out of necessity. I actually delivered a sailboat up the Chesapeake Bay today. It was nice to get out. We've had such a horrific winter. Viking makes some nice large motor yachts. I like how clean and minimalistic the designs are. I can imagine how #1 was a result of #2. I do sailboats and can't get on the water enough and luckily I only have one.

    I read on another forum to NOT use a fan so I'll try your suggestion TO use a fan. My extrusion feed is perfect. If I extrude 20mm of filament, it moves 20.03mm. I think that's close enough so I'll need to look at other causes of blobs. I'll also check my nozzle height so I can smush that first layer in a bit more. It might have risen a bit. I'll go back to a simple calibration model like you mention. I was jumping the gun. I actually did print one of my favorite torture/calibration tests first and it looked pretty good. You can see the retraction is off but for the most part the layers look good and the little 6mm diameter towers look good except for the retraction bits.

    I'll do a new print now and copy your settings as a starting point. I've also posted the same torture test from the same machine with black ABS. So, you can see the machine is capable of very clean prints.

    What slicer are you using? I haven't see 'coasting distance' in any of the ones I use (Slic3r, Cura, Kisslicer).

    Pet+_Print_000A_resize.jpg Pet+_Print_000B_resize.jpg KISSlicer_TowerTorture.jpg
    Last edited by RobH2; 04-05-2014 at 11:30 PM.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  7. #27
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    i use simplify3d. i dont know if the coast setting translates over to any of the other slicers. as for the filament, the fact that it moves 20mm when you have it set to move 20mm is right and that is generally set in the firmware but it can still put out too much on the model it printing. thats all adjusted buy setting your filament diameter and extrusion multiplier. your torture test in the middle does look much better though. it could have been just from the heat. you just need to bump up your retraction. you can see the strings still there. bump your multiplier down a little at a time as well.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Yea, it took me 2 weeks to get ABS dialed in so I was being overly optimistic about this new material. But, that was with a new machine I all of that time was just initial calibration stuff. I'm not too far off right now. I know, baby steps.

    What I'm seeing now is what I call "out of focus." Each successive layer is not on top of the one before it. I think I'll try a different slicer and see if it's the machine or the slicer. Here are a few photos of the issue:

    Edit: I can't figure this forum out in regards to photos. Some will display the size I want them to and other are tiny. These are displaying too small to really see what I'm saying. I'll attach them again. Sorry if they are duplicated.

    Pet+_Print_[N-2]_01_resize.jpg Pet+_Print_[N-2]_02_resize.jpg Pet+_Print_[N-2]_03_resize.jpg

    Edit #2: I think I figured out the photo thing. You have to use .jpg files to get proper display. If you use .png files they get reduced. So far that's the fix.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Bambu P1S/AMS
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  9. #29
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    Looks to be a cost issue... looks to be twice the price of PLA or ABS. 1LB of PET+ vs 2.2LB of PLA for $35.

  10. #30
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    I don't see it as an issue as much as just an acknowledgement. Yea, it is more expensive, but it's all relative. But if you put it in perspective, all of these plastics are really cheap. I mean, a part that cost $.65 to print (using the prices you quote) with ABS is now $1.30. Not too bad really as long as the benefits outweigh the small cost increase.

    It's the thing I have to explain to my clients sometimes. We'll settle on a price of say $275 for a particular illustration. That's a fair price for any illustrator who might work 3 or 4 hours on it. And they think so too, but all of a sudden when they need 30 of the same kind of illustration, the total cost is now $8,250. That sometimes scares the crap out of them until they back up and look at the reasonable cost each.

    It's the same here. If you print 25 items out of 1lb of filament that's still just $1.40 each. Especially if you print your coveted phone case that Apple wants $29.95 for. I don't think that's prohibitive. If the parts jumped in price due to filament cost to say $5.00 each, then I think that might scare some people away, but again, that's still cheap too if you keep it in prespective. As long as filament is as cheap as it is, I really don't worry about it too much. It's like saying one gumball is $.10 and another is $.30. That's three times as expensive, but, it's still only $.30. It's all about perspective.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
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