Close



Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 33

Thread: Black ABS

  1. #11
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
    Posts
    897
    Add RobH2 on Thingiverse
    Jim and all, this thread started out as an ABS thread so I'm going to move the Pet+ discussions to a new thread. This thread has way more Pet+ posts than ABS.

    Look for "Pet+ as a good alternative to ABS."
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  2. #12
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,824
    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Ok guys, Here is how my day went.


    I took my extruders off my machine, and got my old ones out, the ones where one of the nozzles got damaged by this particular filament (I did not want to mess up my new extruders just testing this , These already cost me the stock dual extruders that come with the machine.. a replacement for Aussies is $405 AU, it aint cheap.)

    The pictures speak for themselves.

    Just a note for you guys, if you notice filament coming out like this STOP NOW - DO NOT USE IT. This is how you get foreign particles in your nozzle that can't be dislodged. Just stop using the filament and email them, no matter who you bought it off.

    In doing these tests I used the nozzle from the old dual extruder that never had a problem, well.. guess what? It is now irreversibly blocked unless I drill it out. So there goes my spare backup extruder.



    Now... Some might say "Oh I can see the second shark has spots, but it doesn't look so bad"

    This was the 25th or 26th attempt..

    The nozzles kept blocking, I had to unblock them so many times I needed a beer.




    So.. When I say the Entire roll is useless to me, I am not kidding!
    Last edited by Geoff; 04-13-2014 at 08:10 AM.

  3. #13
    Hello Geoof and everyone else experiencing the same problem as Geoff,

    Please send me an e-mail at peterhsiao@flashforge-usa.com with a comparison shot along with your name, address and order number if you ordered from Amazon or from us directly. If you ordered from anyone other than the two above sellers, please contact them for a replacement.

    I will forward these e-mail to our factory to address quality issues and provide everyone with a solution .

    - Peter

  4. #14
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,824
    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Thanks Pete,will send you another email with my details. I ordered mine direct from FF3DP.com

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    Well the ebay suggestion was for a seller in Austrailia and since Geoff said it was "ok" filament I figured I would leave that as a last resort. For now I have ordered this since it got quite a few good reviews. At least I should be able to work with it.

    Might try IC3D next time.
    The sainsmart black ABS in the link above may be the answer for me. I printed with it last night and got ok results, at least I didn't have to STOP the print like I did with the FF black. Just got some warping on the left side of the print, which I am going to try to print cooler and see what happens. I was trying 228 with a 110 bed (masking tape), I'm going to step down to 226 and 110 bed. Also going to try ABS slurry to print raftless...a feat I have yet to accomplish successfully. I normally print small parts though...usually no more than 4" x 1" area actually on the bed.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,824
    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    The sainsmart black ABS in the link above may be the answer for me. I printed with it last night and got ok results, at least I didn't have to STOP the print like I did with the FF black. Just got some warping on the left side of the print, which I am going to try to print cooler and see what happens. I was trying 228 with a 110 bed (masking tape), I'm going to step down to 226 and 110 bed. Also going to try ABS slurry to print raftless...a feat I have yet to accomplish successfully. I normally print small parts though...usually no more than 4" x 1" area actually on the bed.
    Yeah the slurry does work well, but makes a mess of the hotbed thats all. I sell alot of parts, and I print them raftless so I need a pristine shiny surface to print on - the slurry makes surface matte finish when you print out, whereas pure kapton gives you a mirror like finish.

  7. #17
    Here's a fun fact:

    The FF black ABS may not actually be ABS!

    I thought I would make some slurry from the useless stuff, seeing as how there is no way I am going to load it back in my machine.

    So I cut up about (10) 1" pieces of filament and put them in a glass jar with acetone.

    Anyone who has made slurry knows what should happen.

    The attached pictures show what actually happened and were taken 24 hours afterwards, even after vigorous shaking. Notice that the acetone is still nearly clear.


    FFabs1.jpg FFabs2.jpg

  8. #18
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,824
    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    Here's a fun fact:

    The FF black ABS may not actually be ABS!

    I thought I would make some slurry from the useless stuff, seeing as how there is no way I am going to load it back in my machine.

    So I cut up about (10) 1" pieces of filament and put them in a glass jar with acetone.

    Anyone who has made slurry knows what should happen.

    The attached pictures show what actually happened and were taken 24 hours afterwards, even after vigorous shaking. Notice that the acetone is still nearly clear.


    FFabs1.jpg FFabs2.jpg
    Holy crap... that would explain the strange orange resin type substance in it... agreed, I am not putting mine back in my machine. I was wondering what on earth I am going to do with the roll I have, but with all the parts I build that use ABS pins, I might just use it for actual pinning rather than printing... a lifetime supply of 1.75mm abs joint pins.. lol

    Just an update to my issue, Flashforge did replace my bad roll, and it was shipped here super fast at no cost to myself - you really cannot complain with that at all. If you are going through amazon, Tang is your man.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
    Posts
    897
    Add RobH2 on Thingiverse
    Lately I have printed everything using Elmers Washable School Glue Stick/Disappearing Purple. It is really easy to use and wash off of the glass. I've had nothing release since I've started using it and it's a lot easier than tape and slurry. I've used it for Pet+, ABS, Nylon and PLA.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  10. #20
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    349
    Aside from strange things in the black, another reason black might be so hard to print is that it is probably colored with "carbon black". Carbon is the best conductor of heat of all materials except copper.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •