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  1. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    Stock level is replenished. Getting caught up on pre orders over the weekend.
    should be have received these by now or are you still shipping?

  2. #82
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    909
    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Still in the process of filling back orders, what name was yours under. PM if you want.

    Thanks.

  3. #83
    PM sent.. thanks!

  4. #84
    I placed an order and sent you a PM. Thanks!

  5. #85
    Super Moderator
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    Apr 2014
    Location
    KS
    Posts
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by JuernTech View Post
    I placed an order and sent you a PM. Thanks!
    Hey thanks, I will reply on how the side fan works later today. Yes there is a mounting hole.

  6. #86
    Student
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    35
    Add JohnnyV on Facebook
    I fixed this problem by ordering some cheap 0.002 inch thick stainless steel shims from McmasterCarr. I cut them into little pieces.

    I loosened the bolt that holds the extruder head assembly on, slid the shims in the gap and retightened until the heads were even. Works like a charm and you don't have to deal with multiple extruder disassemblies.

  7. #87
    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    Ahh I see what you mean about the offset, ah well , it's not like you need to adjust it often and as you said, you are getting handing taking them off. It's only a couple of screws really isnt it for an extruder, im glad they made it as basically constructed as they did, makes my simple brain work much less harder.
    Just for interest, this is the procedure I used to align the extruders.
    First - align the bed CAREFULLY with the one extruder this is an extreemly important step and must produce a good result.
    Second - using the information on previous posts release the higher of the two extruder tubes.
    Third - use the baseplate to level between the extruder tips (I used a thin metal foil on the base to act as a reflector to help to see when the hights were the same).
    Forth - with the base still in place screw the nozzle in place.
    Fifth - screwing the nozzle up (tightening) can cause the nozzle to change hight so check again for both nozzles in contact with the base.
    Sixth - reassemble the extruder and re-check.

    now when you level the base next time be sure to check the hight on both extruders at each step. There is an advantage with dual extruders, it is easier to set the bed level as both extruders have to just clear your paper at each step; any tilt will jam one extruder or the other causing the paper to pivot round that nozzle.
    Hope this helps others. Regards, Paul.

  8. #88
    All,
    The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.

    I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.

    Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
    PS>

    • The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
    • And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
    • An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.


    Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
    Hope this saves you some time!
    Last edited by bkochis; 12-04-2015 at 06:54 AM.

  9. #89

    Just got Creator Pro

    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    If you are interested, I designed this to get rid of the little grub screws. It also increases the contact area on the heat barrier tube since it wraps tightly around it. With the stock design the grub screw will always push the tube to one side and leaves an air gap on the grub screw side.

    It is designed to be easy to change the extruder heights and set the to exactly the same height.

    http://store.wmdproducts.com/index.p...&product_id=62
    I just got a Creator Pro and it drags every print. I believe the head that is printing is dragging the print. I believe I will order your improvement here, but not thinking that will help with my problem. Any help would be appreciated.

    MODERATOR NOTE: Post is VERY late to appear due to unexpected problems in obtaining moderator approval.
    Last edited by printbus; 10-10-2016 at 06:28 PM.

  10. #90

    UK feeler gauge

    Quote Originally Posted by bkochis View Post
    All,
    The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.

    I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.

    Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
    PS>

    • The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
    • And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
    • An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.


    Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
    Hope this saves you some time!
    Hi Folks,
    For those in the UK you can get a set of feeler gauges 0.05 to 0.8mm from Toolstation at £2.62 their reference number is 70627.
    Before you ask, I do not have any affiliation with the company, I am just a customer.

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